Panuchos

Step 1: Mix 1 ¾ oz achiote paste with ½ cup bitter orange juice, 2 cloves garlic, ½ tsp dried Mexican oregano and 1 tsp salt into a smooth paste. Coat 1 ⅓ lb boneless chicken thighs in it, cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hour, or up to overnight.

Step 2: Toss 2 red onions with ½ cup lime juice, ½ tsp salt and 1 habanero chilli. Cover and keep in the fridge; they turn bright pink within an hour.

Step 3: Put the chicken and its marinade in a small pan with 100 ml water, cover and simmer over a low heat until it reaches 165°F in the thickest part and shreds easily. Shred it in the sauce and keep warm.

Step 4: Mix 10 ½ oz masa harina, ½ tsp salt and 1 ½ cups warm water into a soft, smooth dough. Roll 12 balls and press each into a tortilla about 11 cm across.

Step 5: Cook the tortillas on a hot dry comal or heavy pan over a medium-high heat, about 40 seconds on the first side and 1 minute on the second, then flip back and press gently with a cloth until they puff. Don't use a lukewarm pan: that's the usual reason the tortillas stay flat with no pocket.

Step 6: While still warm, slit each tortilla along the edge where the thin top skin has lifted, making a pocket. Spread a tablespoon of 10 ½ oz refried black beans inside and press flat.

Step 7: Heat ¾ cup vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat and fry the panuchos, bean side down first, about 1 minute a side until the edges are crisp and golden. Drain on kitchen paper.

Step 8: Top each with 1 handful shredded lettuce or cabbage, shredded chicken, 2 tomatoes, 1 ripe avocado and a tangle of pickled onion. Serve at once.