Papanași

Step 1: Press 14 oz dry curd cheese or ricotta through a sieve into a bowl, or mash it with a fork, so there are no lumps.

Step 2: Beat in 2 eggs, 1 ¾ oz caster sugar, 1 tsp vanilla extract, 1 tsp lemon zest and 1 pinch salt, then stir in 1 ⅜ oz fine semolina and ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda.

Step 3: Add 5 ½ oz plain flour a little at a time, mixing with a spoon, until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough that holds its shape. Rest for 10 minutes so the semolina swells.

Step 4: With floured hands, divide into 4 large and 4 small pieces. Shape the large ones into thick discs 2 cm deep and push a hole through the middle to make rings; roll the small ones into balls.

Step 5: Heat 4 ¼ cups sunflower oil in a deep pan to 325°F (a cube of bread should turn golden in about 40 seconds). Too-hot oil browns them before the inside cooks.

Step 6: Fry two rings and two balls at a time, turning, until deep golden brown and puffed, 5–6 minutes. Drain on kitchen paper.

Step 7: Serve warm: set a ball on each ring, spoon over 1 cup smântână or thick soured cream and top with 7 oz sour cherry or blueberry jam.