Pastéis de nata

Step 1: Mix 7 oz plain flour, ¼ tsp salt and ½ cup cold water into a soft, slightly sticky dough. Knead on a floured surface for 2 minutes until smooth, wrap and rest for 15 minutes.

Step 2: Roll the dough into a 30 cm square. Spread a third of 1 ¾ oz unsalted butter over the left two-thirds, leaving a 1 cm border. Fold the unbuttered third over the middle, then the buttered left third over that, like a letter.

Step 3: Turn the dough 90°, roll it back into a long rectangle and repeat with another third of 1 ¾ oz unsalted butter. Chill for 10 minutes if the butter starts to squeeze out.

Step 4: Roll the dough into a rectangle about 45 × 30 cm and 2 mm thick. Spread the last of 1 ¾ oz unsalted butter all over it. Roll it up tightly from a short side into a log about 4 cm thick, trim the ends, wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes, until firm.

Step 5: Meanwhile, make the syrup: put 7 oz caster sugar, ½ cup water, 1 cinnamon stick and 1 strip unwaxed lemon peel in a small pan and boil without stirring until it reaches 225°F, or until a drop pulled between finger and thumb (careful, let it cool) forms a short thread.

Step 6: Whisk 1 oz plain flour with a quarter of ¼ cup whole milk in a saucepan until smooth. Add the rest of 1 cup whole milk and cook over a medium heat, whisking constantly, until it thickens like thin custard.

Step 7: Remove the cinnamon and lemon from the syrup and pour it into the milk in a thin stream, whisking. Let it cool for 5 minutes, then whisk in 6 egg yolks and ½ tsp vanilla extract and strain into a jug. The custard will look thin; that is right.

Step 8: Heat the oven as hot as it goes, 250–550°F, with a shelf near the top. Butter a 12-hole muffin tin (or pastel de nata tins).

Step 9: Cut the chilled log into 12 slices 1.5 cm thick. Put each one cut side up in a hole, dip your thumbs in cold water and press from the centre outwards and up the sides until the pastry is thin and rises 2 mm above the rim.

Step 10: Fill each case three-quarters full with custard. The common mistake is filling to the top: the custard puffs as it bakes and spills, gluing the tarts to the tin.

Step 11: Bake until the pastry is deep golden and crisp and the custard is puffed with dark brown to black blisters. Check from 10 minutes; in a domestic oven it may take up to 17.

Step 12: Cool in the tin for 5 minutes, then lift out onto a rack. Serve warm, dusted with 1 tsp ground cinnamon and 1 tbsp icing sugar. They are best the same day.