Pastéis de Tentúgal

Step 1: Boil the 7 oz granulated sugar and ½ cup water for 5 minutes to a light thread stage, about 225°F. Cool for 5 minutes.

Step 2: Whisk the 8 egg yolks, then whisk in the warm syrup in a thin stream. Cook over a very low heat, stirring constantly, for 8–10 minutes, until thick enough to hold a ridge and at least 167°F. Cool completely.

Step 3: Heat the oven to 400°F and line a tray with baking paper. Lay one sheet of 12 filo pastry sheets on the work surface, brush with 4 oz unsalted butter, then lay a second sheet on top and brush again. Repeat with a third sheet.

Step 4: Cut the stack across into 3 rectangles. Spoon a line of cream along one short end of each, fold in the long sides and roll up loosely, so the ends are open and the pastry layers stay airy.

Step 5: Repeat with the remaining filo and cream to make 12 rolls. Arrange on the tray, seam down, and brush the tops with the rest of the butter.

Step 6: Bake for 15–20 minutes, until crisp, flaky and pale golden. A common mistake is letting them go dark brown, which hides the delicate taste. Cool slightly and dust thickly with 2 tbsp icing sugar.