Pineapple soybean paste

Step 1: Sterilise the jar and lid: wash in hot soapy water, rinse, then set the jar upside down in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes (or boil jar and lid for 10 minutes). Let it cool and dry completely; jar, lid and every spoon you use must be bone dry. Use a 1.5 litre glass jar.

Step 2: Peel the 1 firm, just-ripe pineapple, cut out the eyes and core, and slice the flesh into wedges 1 cm thick.

Step 3: Spread the wedges on clean cloths and leave in an airy place for 1–2 hours, turning once, until the surface feels dry.

Step 4: Mix the 10 ½ oz dried soybean koji, 3 ½ oz salt and 5 ½ oz white sugar in a dry bowl.

Step 5: Layer the pineapple and the koji mixture in the sterilised jar, starting and finishing with koji, tucking in the 3 dried licorice root slices if using, and pressing each layer down firmly with a dry spoon. Leave 4 cm headspace.

Step 6: Close the lid and keep in a cool, dark place (below 77°F). For the first two weeks open it briefly every few days to release gas; juice will rise and cover the pineapple.

Step 7: Normal: a sweet-salty, miso-like smell, a few bubbles and a thick brown liquid. Bad: fuzzy green, pink or black mould, a putrid smell or slime — throw it all away.

Step 8: After 1–3 months, when the pineapple is amber and soft, move the jar to the fridge. Keeps 6 months more; always use a clean, dry spoon. Spoon over fish with ginger before steaming.