Pla kapong tod nam pla

Step 1: Rinse 1 whole sea bass inside and out, then pat it very dry with kitchen paper. On a board kept for raw fish, cut 3 deep diagonal slashes on each side, right down to the bone, so it cooks evenly.

Step 2: Rub ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp ground white pepper all over and into the cuts, then dust the fish lightly with 2 tbsp rice flour, shaking off the excess.

Step 3: Heat 4 ¼ cups vegetable oil in a large wok over a medium-high heat to 350°F (a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds). The oil should come at least halfway up the fish.

Step 4: Lower the fish in gently, tail end away from you, using a wide spatula. Fry without moving it for 3 minutes, then baste the top with hot oil and keep frying for 4–5 minutes more until the underside is deep golden and rigid. A common mistake is nudging it too soon: the skin tears and sticks.

Step 5: Turn the fish carefully with two spatulas and fry the second side for 6–7 minutes until crisp and deep golden. Check at the thickest point by the backbone: the flesh must be opaque and flake easily from the bone (145°F / 145 °F).

Step 6: Lift the fish out, let the oil drip off and drain it on a rack for 2 minutes.

Step 7: Meanwhile, simmer 4 tbsp fish sauce, 2 tbsp palm sugar and 2 tbsp water in a small pan over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes until it thickens to a light syrup that coats a spoon.

Step 8: Set the fish on a warm platter, spoon the hot glaze over just before serving so the skin stays crisp, and scatter with crispy garlic, coriander and chilli.