Polvo à lagareiro

Step 1: Put 3 ⅓ lb octopus, 1 onion and 2 bay leaves in a large pan, cover with cold water and bring slowly to a simmer. Don't add salt.

Step 2: Simmer gently, with just a few bubbles breaking, for 45–60 minutes, until a knife slides into the thickest part of a tentacle like it would into a cooked potato. Leave it in the water off the heat for 15 minutes.

Step 3: Meanwhile heat the oven to 425°F (400°F fan). Toss 1 ¾ lb small new potatoes in 2 tbsp coarse salt on a tray, so they are crusted with it, and roast for 35–40 minutes until tender inside and wrinkled outside.

Step 4: Take the potatoes out and punch each one lightly with your fist (or press with the bottom of a glass) so it splits open.

Step 5: Drain the octopus, cut it into tentacles and pieces of body, and lay it in a roasting dish with the potatoes around it.

Step 6: Warm ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil and 8 cloves garlic in a small pan until the garlic sizzles and turns pale gold, about 3 minutes. Pour it over the octopus and potatoes.

Step 7: Roast for 10–15 minutes until the octopus is sizzling and the thin ends of the tentacles are crisp and browned.

Step 8: Scatter with 3 tbsp flat-leaf parsley and serve in the dish, with bread for the oil if you like.