Porceddu

Step 1: The day before, pat 4 ⅜ lb skin-on pork belly or boneless pork shoulder very dry, especially the skin. Rub ⅝ tbsp coarse sea salt into the skin and into the scores, and the rest of ⅜ tbsp coarse sea salt over the meat side. Put it skin side up on a plate and leave it uncovered in the bottom of the fridge overnight, away from ready-to-eat food.

Step 2: Heat the oven to 325°F (275°F fan). Take the pork out of the fridge 30 minutes before roasting and brush off any moisture from the skin.

Step 3: Spread half of 5 fresh myrtle sprigs in a roasting tin and set the pork on top, skin side up. Rub the meat sides (not the skin) with 2 tbsp olive oil. Pour ¾ cup hot water into the tin, around but not over the meat.

Step 4: Roast until the meat is very tender when pierced with a skewer and the juices run clear. A shoulder needs about 2½ hours, a belly about 2 hours; the inside should be well past 145°F. Top up the water if the tin dries out.

Step 5: Turn the oven up to 450°F (400°F fan) and roast until the skin puffs, blisters and turns crisp and golden all over. Watch closely and turn the tin if one side browns first.

Step 6: Don't cover the pork or put it back in the tin juices while it rests: steam is the most common reason crackling turns leathery. Lay the rest of 5 fresh myrtle sprigs on a board, put the pork on top, skin side up, and rest uncovered for at least 15 minutes.

Step 7: Cut through the crackling with a heavy knife or kitchen scissors and slice or pull the meat into pieces. Serve with the scented herbs underneath.