Potoler dorma

Step 1: Lightly scrape the skin of 10 pointed gourds (potol/parwal) with a knife, leaving it green and striped. Cut off one tip, then scoop out the seeds through that end with a small spoon or peeler, keeping the walls about 5 mm thick. Chop the seeds and flesh you removed.

Step 2: Rub the gourds inside and out with half the ½ tsp ground turmeric and a little of the ½ tsp salt. Heat 4 tbsp mustard oil in a kadhai and fry them over a medium heat for 6–7 minutes, turning, until blistered and light golden. Lift out.

Step 3: In 1 tbsp of the same oil fry the chopped seeds for 2 minutes. Add 7 oz paneer, 2 tsp fresh ginger, 1 green chilli, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 ½ tsp sugar, 1 tbsp raisins, a pinch of salt and half the ½ tsp Bengali garam masala. Stir for 2 minutes until dry and crumbly; cool slightly.

Step 4: Pack the filling firmly into each gourd with your fingers.

Step 5: Blend 15 cashew nuts with 3 ½ oz plain yoghurt and 1 tomato to a smooth paste.

Step 6: Heat the remaining oil, add 2 bay leaves, 3 green cardamom pods and 1 cinnamon stick and fry for 30 seconds. Add 1 tbsp fresh ginger, 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder, 1 tsp ground coriander and the rest of the ½ tsp ground turmeric and stir for 1 minute.

Step 7: Lower the heat and add the cashew paste. Cook, stirring, for 5–6 minutes until it thickens and the oil separates at the edges.

Step 8: Add 1 cup hot water and the rest of the 1 tsp salt and bring to a simmer. Lay in the stuffed gourds, open end up, cover and simmer gently for 8–10 minutes, spooning the gravy over, until a toothpick slides into the gourds easily.

Step 9: Finish with 1 tbsp ghee and the rest of the ½ tsp Bengali garam masala, rest covered for 3 minutes and serve with luchi or pulao.