Rashoof

Step 1: Put 7 oz brown lentils in a large pot with 6 ¼ cups water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Skim off any foam, lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, until the lentils are tender but holding their shape.

Step 2: Stir in 3 ½ oz coarse bulgur and 1 tsp ground cumin and simmer gently, stirring now and then so it doesn't catch, until the bulgur is soft and the soup is thick.

Step 3: Meanwhile, heat 3 tbsp ghee in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry 2 onions, stirring often, until deep golden and crisp at the edges, then add 3 cloves garlic for the last minute.

Step 4: Whisk 14 oz liquid jameed or thick strained yoghurt in a bowl with a ladle of the hot soup until smooth. Lower the heat under the pot to its lowest setting and stir the yoghurt mixture in, always in one direction. Heat until steaming but not bubbling. Common mistake: boiling it now, which splits the yoghurt.

Step 5: Taste and add ½ tsp salt only if needed. Ladle into bowls and pile the onions and their buttery fat on top. Eat with bread and raw onion or radishes.