Risotto alla milanese

Step 1: Bring 5 ½ cups vegetable stock to a simmer and keep it just bubbling. Soak ½ tsp saffron threads in 3 tablespoons of the hot stock in a cup.

Step 2: Melt a third of ⅔ oz butter in a wide, heavy pan over a medium-low heat. Cook ½ onion for 5 minutes until soft and translucent, not browned.

Step 3: Add 11 ½ oz carnaroli or arborio rice, turn the heat to medium and toast for 2 minutes, stirring, until the grains are hot, look pearly at the edges and make a dry crackle.

Step 4: Pour in ½ cup dry white wine and stir until it has evaporated and the sharp smell has gone, about 1 minute.

Step 5: Add a ladle of stock and stir until it is almost absorbed. Keep adding stock a ladle at a time, stirring often, at a steady simmer.

Step 6: After 10 minutes add the saffron with its liquid. Keep going for 6–8 minutes more, until the rice is creamy and tender with a slight bite at the centre. Common mistake: adding all the stock at once; the rice boils instead of releasing its starch and the risotto is never creamy.

Step 7: Take off the heat. Add the rest of 1 ⅜ oz butter and 2 ⅛ oz Parmigiano Reggiano and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon for 1 minute (the mantecatura) until glossy and flowing. Season with ½ tsp salt.

Step 8: Cover and rest for 2 minutes, then serve on flat warm plates; it should spread gently into a wave.