Ropa vieja

Step 1: Put 2 ¼ lb beef flank steak, 2 bay leaves, ½ onion, 1 carrot and 1 tsp salt in a large pot with 8 ¼ cups water. Bring to the boil, skim off the grey foam, then cover and simmer gently.

Step 2: Simmer for 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, until a fork pushed into the thickest piece twists the meat apart with no effort.

Step 3: Lift out the beef and leave it until cool enough to handle. Strain and keep the cooking liquid; throw away the vegetables and bay leaves.

Step 4: Pull the beef into thin strands along the grain with two forks or your fingers. Never cut it with a knife: the long ragged threads are the point of the dish.

Step 5: In a wide, heavy pan heat 3 tbsp olive oil over a medium heat. Add 1 onion, 1 red pepper and 1 green pepper and cook, stirring now and then, until soft and sweet but not brown.

Step 6: Add 5 cloves garlic, 1 ½ tsp ground cumin and 1 tsp dried oregano and stir for 1 minute until fragrant. Stir in 2 tbsp tomato paste and cook for 1 minute more so it darkens slightly.

Step 7: Add 14 oz chopped tomatoes, 1 tbsp white wine vinegar, the rest of 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp black pepper and 300 ml of the kept cooking liquid. Simmer for 5 minutes.

Step 8: Stir in the shredded beef, 2 ⅞ oz green olives and 1 tbsp capers. Simmer uncovered over a low heat for 20 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce clings to every strand. Add a splash more cooking liquid if it gets dry.

Step 9: Taste and adjust the salt. Serve with white rice, black beans and fried plantain. Cool leftovers within 2 hours and keep them covered in the fridge for up to 3 days; reheat until piping hot all the way through.