Rugra curry

Step 1: Soak 1 ⅛ lb rugra, or small button or chestnut mushrooms in water for 10 minutes, rub them clean and rinse until the water runs clear. Halve them; if using button mushrooms, just wipe and halve.

Step 2: Heat 4 tbsp mustard oil in a kadhai over a high heat until it smokes lightly, then lower to medium. Add 1 bay leaf and 1 tsp cumin seeds and let them crackle for a few seconds.

Step 3: Add 2 onions and fry for 8–10 minutes, stirring, until deep golden brown. Add 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste and 2 green chillies and fry for 1 minute, until the raw smell goes.

Step 4: Add 2 tomatoes, ½ tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder, 1 ½ tsp ground coriander, ½ tsp ground cumin and 1 tsp salt. Cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring, until the tomatoes melt and oil gleams at the edges. Common mistake: adding the mushrooms before the masala is cooked; they release water and the masala never fries properly.

Step 5: Add the mushrooms and stir-fry over a medium-high heat for 5 minutes, until coated and glossy. Pour in ¾ cup hot water, cover and simmer for 8 minutes (rugra) or 5 minutes (button mushrooms), until tender and the gravy is thick.

Step 6: Sprinkle with ½ tsp garam masala and 2 tbsp coriander leaves and serve with rice or roti.