Saeujeot

Step 1: Sterilise a 1.5 litre glass jar and lid: wash in hot soapy water, rinse, then dry in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes. Let it cool fully; it must be completely dry.

Step 2: Weigh the 2 ¼ lb very fresh or sea-frozen tiny raw shrimp and check the salt: you need 30% of the shrimp's weight (300 g salt for 1 kg). Pick out any bits of weed, small fish or broken, dark shrimp.

Step 3: Stir 1 oz fine sea salt into 4 ¼ cups cold water until dissolved, swish the shrimp through it in two batches and lift them out into a colander. Drain for 10 minutes; keep them cold.

Step 4: In a large chilled bowl mix the shrimp with 250 g of 9 oz coarse sea salt until every shrimp is coated and the salt starts to dissolve.

Step 5: Pack the mixture into the jar, pressing down with a clean spoon to remove air, and leave at least 3 cm of headspace.

Step 6: Spread the remaining salt in an even layer over the top to seal it, wipe the rim and close the lid.

Step 7: Keep the jar in the fridge (about 4 °C) for at least 3 months; traditional cave ageing happens around 59°F, but the fridge is the safe home kitchen choice. Do not open it during the first month.

Step 8: Check it is ready: the shrimp are plump and pinkish ivory, the liquid is clear and amber, and it smells sweet and briny. Throw it away if it smells of ammonia or rot, turns slimy or grey-black, or grows any mould.

Step 9: Keep it in the fridge for up to a year, always using a clean, dry spoon and pressing the shrimp back under their liquid. Use it in kimchi and steamed eggs (for vulnerable eaters, only in dishes cooked until bubbling hot).

Step 10: Optional dip for boiled pork: chop 1 tbsp saeujeot finely and mix with ½ tsp gochugaru (Korean chilli flakes), 1 garlic clove, 1 scallion and ½ tsp toasted sesame seeds. Serve within a day.