Salted egg chicken

Step 1: Mix 1 ⅓ lb boneless chicken thighs with 1 tbsp light soy sauce, ½ tsp ground white pepper, 1 tsp sugar and 1 egg. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 20 minutes, or up to 4 hours.

Step 2: Steam 6 salted duck egg yolks on a plate over boiling water for 10 minutes, until firm and cooked through. While still warm, mash them through a sieve with the back of a spoon into a fine, sandy crumb.

Step 3: Heat 4 ¼ cups neutral oil in a wok or deep pot to 350°F. Toss the chicken in 6 tbsp potato starch or cornflour until every piece is well coated, shaking off the excess.

Step 4: Fry the chicken in two batches for 5–6 minutes each, until pale golden and cooked to 165°F in the thickest piece. Lift out onto a rack.

Step 5: Raise the oil to 375°F and fry all the chicken again for 1 minute, until deep golden and crunchy. Drain well on a rack.

Step 6: Pour the oil out of the wok and wipe it clean. Melt 1 ¾ oz unsalted butter over a low heat until it foams, then add 3 garlic cloves, 3 sprigs curry leaves and 3 bird's eye chillies and fry for 1 minute, until the leaves crackle and the garlic is fragrant.

Step 7: Keeping the heat low, add the mashed yolks and 2 tsp sugar and stir constantly for 1–2 minutes, until the mixture foams up and smells rich and nutty. Stir in 3 tbsp evaporated milk if using.

Step 8: Tip in the fried chicken and toss quickly for 30 seconds, until every piece is coated in the frothy sauce. Serve at once with plain rice, while the coating is still crisp.