Samlor machu kroeung

Step 1: Pound or blend 3 lemongrass stalks, ⅔ oz galangal, ⅓ oz fresh turmeric, 5 garlic cloves, 2 shallots and 4 kaffir lime leaves into a fine, bright yellow paste, adding a splash of water if blending.

Step 2: Put 1 ⅛ lb braising beef in a large pan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Boil for 3 minutes, then drain and rinse; this keeps the broth clear.

Step 3: Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in the cleaned pan over a medium heat. Fry the kroeung for 3–4 minutes, stirring, until it darkens a shade and smells sweet and toasty.

Step 4: Add the beef and stir for 2 minutes to coat it in the paste.

Step 5: Pour in 1.5 litres water, bring to the boil, then lower the heat. Cover and simmer gently for 60 minutes, until the beef is tender enough to cut with a spoon. Skim off any foam as it rises.

Step 6: Squeeze the soaked 1 ⅜ oz tamarind pulp with your fingers, then press it through a sieve into the pan, discarding the seeds and fibres. Add 1 tbsp palm sugar, 2 tbsp fish sauce, ½ tsp salt and 1 tsp prahok (fermented fish paste) if using, and simmer for 5 minutes.

Step 7: Add 2 tomatoes and the morning glory stems from 9 oz morning glory (water spinach) and cook for 2 minutes, until the stems are just tender but still crunchy.

Step 8: Add the morning glory leaves and simmer for 1 minute, until wilted and bright green. Turn off the heat.

Step 9: Taste: it should be clearly sour, then salty, with a light sweetness. Add more tamarind water, fish sauce or sugar to balance.

Step 10: Ladle into bowls and add 1 handful Thai or holy basil leaves and 1 fresh red chilli if you like. Serve hot with 1 ⅓ lb steamed jasmine rice on the side.