Sandwich dhokla

Step 1: Soak 7 oz short-grain rice and 2 ½ oz split white urad dal together in plenty of water for 5 hours, then drain.

Step 2: Grind to a smooth, thick batter with 4 oz sour plain yogurt and just enough ¾ cup warm water, a little at a time. It should coat a spoon thickly.

Step 3: Cover and leave in a warm spot to ferment for 8–10 hours at 26–86°F (up to 14 hours in a cold kitchen, or in an oven with only the light on). It is ready when it has risen by about a third, looks bubbly and smells pleasantly sour, not sharp or alcoholic.

Step 4: Blend 1 ¾ oz fresh coriander, 2 green chillies, 1 tbsp roasted peanuts, 1 tbsp lemon juice and ½ tsp salt with 1–2 tbsp water to a thick paste. Set aside.

Step 5: Stir 2 tsp ginger-green chilli paste, 1 ½ tsp salt, 1 tsp sugar and 2 tbsp sunflower oil into the fermented batter. Divide it into two bowls. Grease a 22 cm round tin and bring 5 cm of water to a hard boil in a steamer.

Step 6: Add half the 1 ½ tsp eno-style fruit salt to the first bowl with a splash of water, stir until frothy and pour into the tin. Steam covered over high heat until the top is just set and no longer shiny.

Step 7: Lift the lid and spread the chutney evenly over the set layer with a wet spoon, right to the edges.

Step 8: Fizz the second bowl with the rest of the 1 ½ tsp eno-style fruit salt, pour it gently over the chutney, sprinkle with ½ tsp coarsely crushed black pepper and steam covered until a knife in the centre comes out clean.

Step 9: Rest the dhokla for 10 minutes, then cut into squares so the green stripe shows on the sides.

Step 10: Heat 2 tbsp sunflower oil over medium heat, crackle 1 tsp black mustard seeds, then add 1 tbsp white sesame seeds, ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing) and 10 curry leaves. When the sesame is golden, pour over the dhokla and serve, or keep covered in the fridge for a day.