Sri Lankan chicken curry

Step 1: Put 2 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 tsp fennel seeds, 2 cm piece cinnamon stick, 3 green cardamom pods, 4 cloves, 1 /2 tsp black peppercorns, 1 tsp raw white rice and 8 leaves curry leaves in a dry heavy pan over a medium-low heat and stir constantly for 5–6 minutes, until the seeds turn dark brown and just begin to smoke.

Step 2: Tip onto a plate, cool for 2 minutes, then grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder.

Step 3: Rub 2 ¼ lb chicken, skin removed, cut into small bone-in pieces with 3 tbsp of the roasted powder, 1 ½ tsp salt, 1 /2 tsp ground turmeric, 1 ½ tsp Sri Lankan or Kashmiri chilli powder and 1 tbsp white vinegar. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 20 minutes, or up to overnight.

Step 4: Heat 3 tbsp coconut oil in a heavy pan over a medium heat. Add 5 cm piece cinnamon stick, 4 green cardamom pods, 2 sprigs curry leaves and 10 cm piece pandan leaf and let them sizzle for 30 seconds until fragrant.

Step 5: Add 2 red onions and 2 green chillies and cook, stirring often, for 7–8 minutes until soft and golden at the edges.

Step 6: Stir in 5 cloves garlic and 3 cm piece fresh ginger and fry for 1–2 minutes until the raw smell has gone.

Step 7: Add the chicken with all its marinade, raise the heat to medium-high and turn the pieces for 5 minutes until coated and no longer pink on the outside.

Step 8: Add 1 tomato, about 250 ml of 1 cup coconut milk and ¾ cup water, scrape the bottom of the pan and bring to a gentle simmer.

Step 9: Cover, turn the heat to low and cook for 20–25 minutes, stirring now and then, until the chicken is tender and the thickest piece reads 165°F.

Step 10: Stir in the remaining ¾ cup coconut milk and the last tablespoon of roasted powder and simmer uncovered for 3–4 minutes, without boiling hard, until the gravy coats a spoon and a film of red oil rises to the top.

Step 11: Take off the heat, taste for salt, remove the pandan and let the curry rest for 5 minutes before serving with red rice.