Sukiyaki (Kanto style)

Step 1: Make the warishita: put the ½ cup mirin and 3 ½ tbsp sake in a small pan and boil over a medium heat for 1 minute to cook off most of the alcohol. Add the ½ cup soy sauce, 3 tbsp sugar and ½ cup water and stir until the sugar dissolves. For an alcohol-free sauce, replace the mirin and sake with 150 ml water and 2 extra tablespoons of sugar.

Step 2: Drop the 7 oz shirataki (konjac noodles) into boiling water for 2 minutes, drain and cut into shorter lengths with scissors.

Step 3: Arrange the 10 ½ oz grilled or firm tofu, shirataki, 2 Japanese leek (naganegi) or slim leeks, 6 fresh shiitake mushrooms, 10 ½ oz napa (Chinese) cabbage and 3 ½ oz shungiku (chrysanthemum greens) or spinach on a large platter, and the 1 ⅛ lb thinly sliced beef for sukiyaki (ribeye or sirloin) on another plate. Take everything to the table with the sauce.

Step 4: Heat a shallow cast-iron sukiyaki pan or wide frying pan on a table burner (or the hob) over a medium-high heat. Melt the 1 tbsp beef fat or vegetable oil and rub it over the base.

Step 5: Lay a few pieces of leek in the pan and cook for 1 minute until lightly browned. Add 3 or 4 slices of beef, spread out flat, and pour over enough warishita to come about 5 mm up the pan.

Step 6: Cook the beef for about 30 seconds a side, just until the pink has gone. Common mistake: leaving the beef to stew until grey and tough. Lift it out as soon as it changes colour and eat it straight away.

Step 7: Beat one of the 4 very fresh eggs, ideally pasteurised in each diner's small bowl, if using, and dip the hot beef in it before eating. Anyone pregnant, very young, elderly or unwell should skip the raw egg.

Step 8: Add the tofu, shirataki (on the opposite side from the beef), mushrooms and cabbage in their own sections. Pour in more warishita to half cover them and simmer over a medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, until the cabbage is soft.

Step 9: Add the greens for the last minute and more beef slices as you go, cooking each batch until just no longer pink. Top up with warishita, or a splash of water if the sauce becomes too salty and thick.

Step 10: Serve with bowls of 1 ⅓ lb hot cooked Japanese rice. When the pan is empty, some families cook udon noodles or rice in the last of the sauce.