Sumaghiyyeh

Step 1: Soak 2 ⅛ oz sumac in 1 ¾ cups warm water for 30 minutes, then rub it in a fine sieve over a bowl to squeeze out all the dark liquid. Discard the husks.

Step 2: Put 1 ½ lb boneless lamb shoulder, 1.2 litres water, 1 onion, 3 cardamom pods and half of 1 tsp salt in a pot and bring to the boil, skimming off the foam. Cover and simmer for 1 hour, until tender.

Step 3: Lift out the meat; strain and keep the broth.

Step 4: Wilt 2 ¼ lb Swiss chard in a large pot with a splash of the broth for 5 minutes, then add the lamb, 14 oz cooked chickpeas and 600 ml of the broth and simmer for 10 minutes.

Step 5: Whisk 3 tbsp plain flour into the sumac liquid until smooth, then whisk in 4 oz tahini. Stir it into the pot and cook on a low heat for 10 minutes, stirring often, until thick enough to coat a spoon.

Step 6: Pound 8 cloves garlic, 1 tbsp dill seeds, 2 red chillies and the rest of 1 tsp salt to a paste. Warm ½ cup olive oil in a small pan, fry the paste for 1 minute until fragrant (don't let it brown) and stir it into the stew with 1 oz fresh dill.

Step 7: Cool and chill, covered, overnight if you can. Serve at room temperature in shallow bowls with a thread of olive oil and bread. Keeps 4 days in the fridge.