Sup tulang

Step 1: Rinse 3 ⅓ lb meaty mutton or lamb shank bones with marrow, put them in a large pot with cold water to cover, bring to the boil and blanch for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse off the scum.

Step 2: Return the bones to the clean pot with 2 litres of fresh water, ⅔ oz fresh ginger and 1 tsp salt. Bring to the boil, then simmer, partly covered, until the meat is tender and pulling away from the bone.

Step 3: Meanwhile, blend 2 onions, 6 garlic cloves, 1 oz fresh ginger, the drained 10 dried red chillies and 4 ripe tomatoes to a smooth purée.

Step 4: Heat 4 tbsp neutral oil in a wide, heavy pot over a medium heat. Fry 1 cinnamon stick, 2 star anise, 4 green cardamom pods and 4 cloves for 30 seconds, until they puff and smell warm.

Step 5: Add the purée and fry, stirring often, until it thickens, darkens and the oil rises to the surface.

Step 6: Stir in 3 tbsp tomato paste, 4 tbsp tomato ketchup and 3 tbsp chilli sauce and cook for 2 minutes, until glossy and brick red.

Step 7: Lift the bones into the gravy and add about 1 litre of their stock. Add 2 tbsp sugar and 1 tsp salt and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes, until the meat is falling off the bone and the gravy has reduced.

Step 8: Stir in 2 tbsp cornflour and simmer for 2 minutes more, until the gravy is thick enough to coat the bones. Taste: it should be sweet, tangy and spicy; adjust with sugar, salt or more chilli sauce.

Step 9: Pile the bones on plates, spoon over the gravy and scatter with 3 green chillies and 1 handful coriander leaves. Serve with 1 lime, straws or small spoons for the marrow, and bread for mopping.