Svíčková na smetaně

Step 1: Trim any sinew from 2 ⅝ lb beef sirloin or topside, in one piece. Rub it with 2 tsp salt. Put it in a non-metal dish with 3 carrots, 2 parsley root or parsnip, 9 oz celeriac and 2 onions.

Step 2: Bring 2 cups water, ½ cup white wine vinegar, 8 allspice berries, 10 black peppercorns, 3 bay leaves and 1 tsp dried thyme to the boil, cool completely, then pour over the beef and vegetables. Cover and marinate in the fridge for 24–48 hours, turning the beef once or twice.

Step 3: Heat the oven to 325°F (275°F fan). Lift out the beef and pat dry. Melt 1 ⅜ oz butter in a casserole over a medium-high heat (fry 2 ⅞ oz smoked streaky bacon first if using) and brown the beef on all sides, about 8 minutes.

Step 4: Lift out the beef. Add the drained vegetables and fry for 10 minutes until starting to colour. Return the beef, pour over the marinade with its spices, cover and roast for 2–2½ hours, turning the beef halfway, until a skewer slides in easily.

Step 5: Lift out the beef, cover with foil and rest for 15 minutes. Fish out the bay leaves, allspice and peppercorns.

Step 6: Sprinkle 2 tbsp plain flour over the vegetables and liquid in the casserole and stir over a medium heat for 2 minutes. Add 300 ml water and simmer for 5 minutes.

Step 7: Blend with a stick blender until completely smooth, then pass through a sieve back into the pan. Stir in 1 ¼ cups single cream and 1 tsp mild mustard and simmer gently for 5 minutes.

Step 8: Season with 1 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp lemon juice and more salt until sweet, sour and savoury are in balance. Thin with water if thicker than double cream.

Step 9: Meanwhile steam or warm 12 Czech bread dumplings (houskové knedlíky) until hot right through, about 10 minutes.

Step 10: Slice the beef thinly across the grain and warm the slices briefly in the sauce. Serve with dumplings, plenty of sauce, a spoonful of 6 tbsp cranberry sauce, 6 tbsp whipped cream and 1 lemon. Leftovers keep 3 days in the fridge; reheat until piping hot.