Shinshu soba with spicy daikon dip

Step 1: Spread 2 tbsp medium or red miso thinly on a small piece of foil and toast it under a hot grill or in a dry frying pan over medium heat for 2–3 minutes, until it smells nutty and the edges brown. Scrape into a bowl and stir in 1 tsp mirin.

Step 2: Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Add 7 oz dried soba noodles, stir once, and cook for the time on the packet, usually 4–5 minutes, keeping it at a rolling boil but not boiling over.

Step 3: Drain into a colander and rinse under cold running water, rubbing the noodles between your hands to wash off the starch, until they feel smooth and cool. Drain well and divide onto plates or bamboo trays.

Step 4: Common mistake: skipping the rinse. Unwashed soba is sticky and dull, and it clumps on the plate.

Step 5: Now grate 10 ½ oz daikon radish finely, squeeze the pulp hard over a bowl and collect the juice. Taste: it should be peppery. If it is mild, stir in ½ tsp Japanese mustard (karashi).

Step 6: Pour the juice into small cups, add a spoonful of the toasted miso to each and stir. Top the noodles with 2 spring onions and ⅔ oz walnuts. Dip a few strands at a time, adding more miso to the cup as you go.