Takha

Step 1: Put 1 beef or veal trotter, cleaned and split by the butcher, 10 ½ oz buffalo or beef skin, scalded and scraped clean (or use a second trotter) and 1 ¾ lb beef or buffalo shin, bone-in in a large pot, cover with water and bring to the boil; boil for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse off all the scum and clean the pot.

Step 2: Return the meat to the pot with 12 ½ cups cold water, 6 cm piece fresh ginger, 8 cloves garlic, 2 bay leaves and 2 tsp salt. Bring just to the boil, skim, then simmer over the lowest heat, uncovered, for 3 hours, skimming now and then, until the shin falls apart and the skin and trotter are very soft.

Step 3: Lift out the meat, trotter and skin. Strain the stock through a fine sieve and skim off as much fat as you can; you should have about 1.2 litres. Test the set on a cold saucer and boil it down if needed.

Step 4: When cool enough to handle, shred the shin meat and cut the soft skin into small pieces, discarding bones and gristle, and stir them back into the stock with 1 tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 /2 tsp timur (Sichuan pepper), ground and 1 tsp red chilli powder. Simmer for 10 minutes and taste for salt.

Step 5: Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a small pan until it smokes, fry 1 /4 tsp fenugreek seeds for 20–30 seconds until dark, and pour the tempering into the stock.

Step 6: Ladle the stock and meat into small bowls or a shallow dish, cool for no more than an hour, then cover and refrigerate overnight until firmly set.

Step 7: Cut into squares or spoon out, scatter with 2 spring onions and serve cold with beaten rice (chiura). Keep refrigerated and eat within 3 days.