Tapioca crêpe

Step 1: Mix the ¼ tsp salt into the 9 oz tapioca starch, then add the ½ cup water a little at a time, rubbing it in with your fingertips. Stop when the starch clumps when squeezed in your fist but crumbles back when you rub it; it should never become a paste. Leave for 5 minutes. (Ready-hydrated goma from Brazilian shops skips this step.)

Step 2: Push the damp starch through a sieve into a bowl; you'll get fine, fluffy crumbs.

Step 3: Heat a 20 cm non-stick frying pan over a medium heat, with no oil. Sieve or sprinkle in about 4 tbsp of the crumbs to cover the base evenly, about 4 mm thick, and smooth the edges with a spoon without pressing.

Step 4: Cook for about 1 minute, until the starch melts together into one sheet and the edges lift from the pan. Give the pan a shake: the whole disc should slide. It stays white; you aren't looking for colour.

Step 5: For the cheese tapioca, spread half the ⅓ oz butter over one half, scatter over half the 2 ⅛ oz queijo coalho or mozzarella, fold in half and cook 30 seconds more on each side until the cheese melts. For the sweet one, fill with half the ⅞ oz fresh or desiccated coconut and drizzle with half the 2 tbsp sweetened condensed milk before folding.

Step 6: Repeat with the rest of the goma and the remaining ⅓ oz butter, 2 ⅛ oz queijo coalho or mozzarella, ⅞ oz fresh or desiccated coconut and 2 tbsp sweetened condensed milk. Eat straight away; tapioca toughens as it cools.