Ten-fold rice porridge (jūbai-gayu)

Step 1: Rinse 1 ¾ oz Japanese short-grain rice in a sieve under cold running water, rubbing it gently, until the water runs almost clear. Put it in a small heavy pan with 2 cups water and leave it to soak for 30 minutes so the grains soften evenly.

Step 2: Bring the pan to the boil over a medium heat, stir once to loosen any grains on the bottom, then turn the heat down as low as it goes. Cover with the lid slightly ajar so it doesn't boil over.

Step 3: Simmer very gently for 45–50 minutes without stirring. It is ready when the grains have burst and swollen into a thick, creamy porridge with no hard centres when you press one against the side of the pan.

Step 4: Turn off the heat, cover fully and let it rest for 10 minutes to thicken a little more.

Step 5: For a first food, press the porridge through a fine sieve with the back of a spoon, or blend it, until completely smooth with no whole grains. The most common mistake is leaving it lumpy: at six months it should drop off the spoon like thick yoghurt. Loosen with a little boiled water, or with your baby's usual milk, if it is too stiff.

Step 6: Cool a portion until just warm, testing a little on the inside of your wrist, and offer one or two teaspoons.

Step 7: Cool the rest quickly, ideally within an hour, then keep it covered in the fridge for up to 2 days or freeze it in ice-cube trays for up to a month. Reheat only once, until piping hot all the way through, stir well, then let it cool before serving.