Texas chili con carne

Step 1: Toast 4 dried ancho chillies and 4 dried guajillo chillies in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for 30 seconds per side until fragrant and pliable. Put them in a bowl with 2 cups hot water and soak for 20 minutes. Blend with 1 chipotle in adobo and the soaking water until very smooth.

Step 2: Pat 2 ⅝ lb beef chuck dry and toss with 2 tsp salt. Heat 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a heavy casserole over a high heat and brown the beef in 3 batches, 5 minutes each, until deeply browned. A common mistake is crowding the pot, which steams the meat grey.

Step 3: Lower to medium, add 2 onions and cook for 6 minutes. Stir in 6 cloves garlic, 1 tbsp ground cumin and 2 tsp dried oregano for 1 minute.

Step 4: Return the beef, add the chilli purée and 3 ¼ cups beef stock, bring to a simmer, then cover partly and cook very gently for 2½ hours, stirring now and then, until the beef breaks apart easily.

Step 5: Whisk 2 tbsp masa harina or fine cornmeal with a ladle of the hot liquid and stir it in with 1 tbsp cider vinegar. Simmer for 10 minutes uncovered until glossy and thick. Taste for salt.

Step 6: Serve in bowls with 1 white onion and 3 ½ oz cheddar. Chill leftovers within 2 hours; reheat until piping hot all the way through (167°F).