Thai green curry paste

Step 1: Toast 2 tsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds and ½ tsp white peppercorns in a dry pan over a medium-low heat until fragrant and a shade darker, about 2 minutes. Grind finely and set aside.

Step 2: Pound 15 green bird's-eye chillies, 3 long green chillies and 1 tsp coarse sea salt in a mortar until the chillies collapse into a bright green mash, 4–5 minutes. Keep your face away from the bowl; the fumes are strong.

Step 3: Add 2 lemongrass and ½ oz galangal and pound until no long fibres are left.

Step 4: Add 1 tsp kaffir lime zest and 5 coriander roots and pound until the paste turns smoother and deep green.

Step 5: Work in 3 Thai shallots and 6 cloves garlic a little at a time until the paste looks moist and evenly blended.

Step 6: Pound in the ground spices and 1 tsp yellow soybean paste. The paste is ready when it clings to the pestle and smells sharply of lime and chilli. If using a blender, add 1 tbsp neutral oil and scrape down often; do not add water.

Step 7: Store in a clean jar under cling film in the fridge for up to a week (the colour fades after that) or freeze in small portions. Use 3 tablespoons, fried in thick coconut cream until the oil splits, for a curry for four.