Tofu and pumpkin amok

Step 1: If using 4 banana leaves, pass them briefly over a gas flame or dip them in just-boiled water until they turn glossy and supple. Cut eight 20 cm rounds, stack them in pairs with the shiny sides out, fold four tucks around each pair and pin with toothpicks to make four deep cups.

Step 2: Put the 9 oz pumpkin or kabocha squash in a heatproof bowl with 2 tbsp water, cover and steam or microwave for 4–5 minutes, until a knife slides in with a little resistance. It finishes cooking in the custard.

Step 3: In a large bowl, whisk 4 tbsp kroeung (Khmer lemongrass paste), 1 ¼ cups coconut cream, 1 ½ tbsp light soy sauce or tamari, 1 tbsp palm sugar, ¼ tsp salt and 1 tsp rice flour, stirring in one direction, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is evenly yellow. Taste: it should be salty, fragrant and only faintly sweet.

Step 4: Beat 1 egg in a cup, then stir it into the coconut mixture, again in one direction, until no streaks of white remain.

Step 5: Fold 10 ½ oz firm tofu and the pumpkin into the custard gently so the tofu does not break.

Step 6: Line each cup with a small handful of 2 ⅛ oz young spinach or noni leaves, then spoon in the filling and custard, leaving a 1 cm gap at the top.

Step 7: Set the cups in a steamer over simmering (not rolling) water, cover and steam over a medium heat for 18–20 minutes, until the custard is just set: it should wobble like soft tofu when you nudge the cup, with no liquid pooling on top. Common mistake: steaming over a fierce boil, which makes the custard puff, crack and turn spongy. Keep the water at a steady, gentle simmer.

Step 8: Spoon 4 tbsp coconut cream over each amok and scatter with 3 makrut lime leaves and 1 red chilli. Steam for 1 more minute, until the cream on top looks glossy and set at the edges. Serve hot with rice.