Tsukimi udon (moon-viewing udon)

Step 1: Put 5 cups cold water, 3.9 in kombu and 4 dried shiitake mushrooms in a pan and leave to soak for 5 minutes while you slice the onions.

Step 2: Heat over a medium-low heat for about 10 minutes, until small bubbles cling to the kombu, then lift the kombu out just before the water boils. Common mistake: boiling the kombu. It turns the broth slimy and bitter.

Step 3: Simmer the shiitake for 3 minutes more, then lift them out, slice the caps thinly and return them to the pan. Stir in 3 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp sugar and ½ tsp salt and keep the broth at a gentle simmer.

Step 4: Cook 4 frozen udon noodles in a separate pan of boiling water as the packet says, usually 1–2 minutes, until the noodles separate and are hot through, then drain well.

Step 5: Divide the noodles between warmed deep bowls and ladle the very hot broth and shiitake over them.

Step 6: Make a hollow in the noodles in each bowl and slip in an egg from 4 eggs, either the whole egg or just the yolk, so it floats like a moon. For a firm egg, poach it in the simmering broth for 4–5 minutes, until the white and yolk are set, before putting it on the noodles.

Step 7: Scatter with 2 spring onions, add 1 nori and 1 pinch shichimi togarashi and serve straight away. Classic variation (not vegetarian): add 15 g bonito flakes to the broth after removing the kombu, steep for 2 minutes off the heat and strain.