Vegetable curry laksa

Step 1: Drain 10 dried red chillies and blend with 6 shallots, 4 cloves garlic, ⅔ oz galangal, 2 lemongrass stalks, 4 candlenuts, 1 tsp ground turmeric, 1 tbsp ground coriander and 4 tbsp water to a smooth paste.

Step 2: Heat 4 tbsp vegetable oil in a large pot over a medium heat. Add the paste and fry, stirring often, for 10–12 minutes, until it darkens, smells sweet and the oil separates. Cutting this short is the commonest mistake: an underfried paste tastes raw and harsh however long the soup simmers. Stir in 2 tbsp Malaysian curry powder for the last minute, until it smells toasted.

Step 3: Pour in 4 ¼ cups vegetable stock, add ½ oz palm sugar (gula Melaka) and 1 ½ tsp salt and bring to the boil. Add 1 aubergine and 5 ½ oz long beans or green beans and simmer over a medium heat for 8 minutes, until the aubergine is just soft.

Step 4: Stir in 1 ¾ cups coconut milk and 5 ½ oz tofu puffs and turn the heat down so the soup barely trembles. Simmer for 5 minutes and taste for salt and sugar.

Step 5: Meanwhile put 5 ½ oz rice vermicelli in a heatproof bowl, cover with just-boiled water from the kettle and leave 5 minutes until soft; drain. Rinse 7 oz fresh yellow noodles in hot water. Lower 5 ½ oz bean sprouts into the soup in a sieve for 30 seconds to blanch.

Step 6: Divide both noodles and the sprouts between deep bowls, ladle over the soup, vegetables and tofu puffs, and top with 1 handful mint or Vietnamese mint leaves. Serve with 2 limes and 4 tbsp sambal tumis.