Vegetarian turnip cake (lo bak go)

Step 1: Squeeze the soaked 6 dried shiitake mushrooms gently, keeping the soaking water, then cut off the stems and dice the caps finely. Strain the soaking water through a sieve to catch any grit.

Step 2: Heat 1 tbsp of 1 tbsp neutral oil in a wok over a medium heat and fry the shiitake for 2 minutes until fragrant, then add half the 2 spring onions for 30 seconds. Tip into a bowl.

Step 3: Put the grated 2 ¼ lb daikon and all its juice in the wok with 150 ml of the mushroom water. Cover and cook over a medium heat, stirring now and then, until the radish is translucent and soft.

Step 4: Meanwhile whisk 9 oz rice flour, 2 tbsp cornflour, 1 ½ tsp salt, 2 tsp sugar, ½ tsp ground white pepper and the remaining mushroom water (about 100 ml) into a smooth, thick batter.

Step 5: Take the wok off the heat and let the radish cool for 3 minutes. Stir in the batter, the mushroom mixture, 1 tbsp light soy sauce and 1 tsp toasted sesame oil. Return to a low heat and stir until it turns into a thick, sticky paste that holds a trail, about 3 minutes. Don't skip this: a runny mix steams into a soggy cake.

Step 6: Brush a 20 cm square tin with oil, scrape in the paste and smooth the top with a wet spatula.

Step 7: Steam over a rolling boil for 50 minutes, topping up the water as needed. A chopstick pushed into the middle should come out with only a light sheen, not raw batter.

Step 8: Scatter the remaining 2 spring onions over, cool, then cover and chill overnight until firm.

Step 9: Turn the cake out and cut into 1.5 cm slices. Pan-fry in the remaining 2 tbsp neutral oil over a medium-high heat, without moving them, until a deep golden crust forms, about 3–4 minutes a side. Serve hot with chilli sauce.