Xi'an liangpi

Step 1: Mix 1 ⅛ lb strong white bread flour and 1 tsp salt with 1 ¼ cups water and knead to a firm, smooth dough. Cover and rest for 30 minutes.

Step 2: Put the dough in a large bowl with 500 ml of 2 cups cold water and squeeze and knead it under the water. The water turns milky with starch. Pour it through a sieve into a second bowl and repeat with fresh water 4–5 more times, until the water stays nearly clear and you're left with a stretchy, sticky ball of gluten.

Step 3: Mix oz instant yeast into the gluten ball, put it in an oiled bowl and leave for 1 hour. Then steam for 20 minutes, until puffed and spongy. Cool and cut into 2 cm cubes.

Step 4: Leave the starch water for 4 hours or overnight in the fridge. A thick white paste settles at the bottom. Pour off the clear water on top, keeping the paste and enough water to make a batter like single cream.

Step 5: Simmer 2 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns and 2 bay leaves in 1 cup water for 10 minutes. Strain and cool.

Step 6: Bring a wide pan of water to a hard boil. Brush a flat round metal tray (about 25 cm) with a little 2 tbsp neutral oil, stir the batter well and ladle in enough to make a 2 mm layer (4 mm for Gansu-style niangpi). Swirl to cover.

Step 7: Float the tray on the boiling water, cover and steam for 2 minutes, until the sheet puffs with big bubbles and turns translucent. Common mistake: lifting the lid early, which leaves it white and pasty.

Step 8: Lift the tray into a bowl of cold water for 30 seconds, then peel the sheet off, brush with oil and stack. Repeat until the batter is used up.

Step 9: Cut the stacked sheets into 1.5 cm ribbons. Toss with the gluten, 1 cucumber, 3 ½ oz beansprouts, 3 tbsp of the spiced water, 5 cloves garlic, 4 tbsp chilli oil with sediment, 3 tbsp Chinkiang black vinegar, 2 tbsp light soy sauce and 1 tsp sugar. Scatter with 1 small handful fresh coriander and serve cold.