Ximbó

Step 1: Toast 6 dried guajillo chillies and 3 dried pasilla chillies in a dry pan over a medium heat for 10–15 seconds a side until fragrant, then soak in just-boiled water until soft.

Step 2: Char 2 ripe tomatoes and 5 cloves garlic in the same pan until blistered, and toast ½ tsp cumin seeds and 3 whole cloves for 30 seconds.

Step 3: Drain the chillies and blend with the tomatoes, garlic, spices, 1 tsp dried Mexican oregano, 2 tbsp cider vinegar, 2 tsp salt and 150 ml of water until very smooth; sieve it.

Step 4: Put 3 ⅓ lb bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks and 1 ⅛ lb boneless pork shoulder, if using, in a bowl, pour over the sauce and turn to coat. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

Step 5: Cut out the thick central rib of 1 ⅛ lb banana leaves and soften the leaves briefly over a flame or in a hot dry pan until glossy and pliable.

Step 6: Lay two leaves crossways in a shallow bowl to make 6 parcels. Put a share of the meat and sauce in each, top with 10 ½ oz fresh nopales (cactus paddles), 1 white onion and a sprig of 6 fresh epazote or oregano sprigs, then fold the leaves over and tie with string or strips of leaf. Wrap each parcel tightly in baking paper or foil; loose wrapping is the usual mistake, letting the juices leak out and the meat dry.

Step 7: Set the parcels on a rack in a large steamer or pot over 5 cm of simmering water. Cover tightly and steam over a medium-low heat, topping up with boiling water every 30 minutes so the pot never boils dry.

Step 8: Open one parcel to check: the chicken should pull from the bone and reach 165°F in the thickest part, and the pork should be fork-tender. Re-wrap and steam longer if not.

Step 9: Serve each person a parcel to open at the table, with 18 warm corn tortillas and ¾ cup salsa verde.