Yen ta fo

Step 1: Mash 3 fermented red bean curd with its brine, 2 tbsp sriracha-style chilli sauce, 1 tbsp sugar and 1 tbsp white vinegar to a smooth pink sauce.

Step 2: Fry 4 cloves garlic in 3 tbsp vegetable oil over a low heat for 3–4 minutes, stirring, until pale golden. Pour into a bowl at once, as it keeps colouring.

Step 3: Pour 1 ¾ cups vegetable oil into a small, deep pan so it comes no more than a third of the way up the sides. Heat to 350°F on a thermometer, or until a cube of bread browns in about 60 seconds. Never leave the hot oil unattended, and keep children well away from the stove.

Step 4: Fry 8 wonton wrappers in small batches for about 1 minute, until crisp and golden, and drain on kitchen paper.

Step 5: Bring 6 ¼ cups chicken stock to a simmer with 1 tbsp fish sauce. Add 7 oz fish balls and 3 ½ oz fried tofu puffs and simmer for 4 minutes, until the fish balls are puffed and hot through.

Step 6: Add 7 oz squid and simmer for 1 minute only, until just white and curled. Squid should smell clean and of the sea; throw away any that smells sour or of ammonia. Common mistake: boiling it longer, which makes it tough.

Step 7: Blanch 7 oz morning glory or spinach and then 14 oz fresh wide rice noodles in a separate pan of boiling water for 30–60 seconds each, until just tender, and drain.

Step 8: Spoon 2 tbsp pink sauce into each bowl, add the noodles and greens, ladle over the hot stock with the fish balls, tofu and squid, and stir. Top with garlic oil, wonton strips, 1 tsp dried chilli flakes and 1 lime.