Yu xiang aubergine

Step 1: Toss 2 aubergines with 1 tsp salt in a colander and leave for 15 minutes. Squeeze the fingers gently in a clean cloth to remove the brown liquid.

Step 2: Stir ½ cup water or vegetable stock, 1 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 ½ tbsp Chinkiang black vinegar, 1 ½ tbsp sugar and 1 tsp cornflour together in a small bowl. Taste it: it should be sweet and sour in equal measure.

Step 3: Toss the dried aubergine with 2 tbsp cornflour so each piece is lightly dusted.

Step 4: Heat 3 ¾ tbsp vegetable oil in a wok over a medium-high heat. Fry the aubergine in two batches for 5–6 minutes, turning, until golden at the edges and soft enough to squash with a spatula. Drain on kitchen paper.

Step 5: Pour off all but the remaining oil, adding 1 ¼ tbsp vegetable oil if the wok is dry. On a medium heat fry 1 ½ tbsp chilli bean paste (doubanjiang) or pickled chilli paste for 1 minute until the oil goes red, then add 4 cloves garlic, 1 tbsp fresh ginger and 3 spring onions and stir for 30 seconds until fragrant.

Step 6: Stir the sauce and pour it in. It will thicken and turn glossy within 30 seconds. Return the aubergine and toss gently for 1 minute to coat. Common mistake: tossing too hard, which turns the fingers to purée; fold, don't stir.

Step 7: Tip onto a plate and scatter with 2 tbsp spring onion greens. Serve hot with rice.