Zhajiangmian with mushroom and tofu

Step 1: Heat 4 tbsp vegetable oil in a wok over a medium-high heat. Fry 9 oz firm tofu and 7 oz chestnut mushrooms for 6–7 minutes, stirring now and then, until the tofu is golden and the mushrooms have browned and stopped releasing liquid.

Step 2: Add the whites of 3 spring onions and 1 tbsp fresh ginger and stir for 30 seconds. Lower the heat to low and add 3 tbsp yellow soybean paste (huangjiang) and 3 tbsp sweet bean sauce (tianmianjiang).

Step 3: Stir-fry the pastes gently for 4–5 minutes. Common mistake: frying on a high heat; the sugars in the paste burn and turn bitter. It's ready when the oil starts to pool around the edges and the sauce smells nutty.

Step 4: Add 1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine, 1 tsp sugar and ¾ cup water and simmer for 5 minutes until thick enough to coat a spoon. It should be very salty on its own; the noodles balance it.

Step 5: Cook 14 oz thick wheat noodles until just tender, then rinse briefly under warm water so they don't clump. Drain well.

Step 6: Divide between bowls, spoon 2–3 tbsp of sauce on each, and arrange 1 cucumber, 3 ½ oz red radishes or mooli and 3 ½ oz beansprouts round the edge with the spring onion greens. Toss everything together before eating.