Sanduíche de mortadelaFried mortadella and cheese roll
Tourists queue for it at the Mercado Municipal in São Paulo, where the sandwich counters on the mezzanine fold slice after slice of mortadella onto a hot griddle until the stack is taller than the bread. Mortadella is a cooked pork sausage, and warming it this way crisps the edges, softens the fat and makes it taste sweeter and more peppery; a layer of melted provolone or mild cheese glues it together inside a crusty French roll. It is gloriously over the top, best eaten with both hands and a paper napkin. The mistake most people make is stacking cold mortadella flat, which stays rubbery; fold the slices loosely so the heat gets between them. Chef's tip: ask for the mortadella sliced very thin, almost see-through; thin slices ruffle up and give the sandwich its height and tenderness.



