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Recipes with dried sour plums

4 recipes that use dried sour plums, with photos, step-by-step instructions and cook times. The quickest, Morgh-e torsh, takes 80 minutes. It is most often cooked with onion, saffron threads and turmeric.

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Kufta bozbash

Kufta bozbash is one of Baku's great soups: huge lamb meatballs, each with a sour dried plum (alcha) hidden in the middle, simmered in a saffron-tinted broth with chickpeas and potatoes. Families make it on cold weekends, serving the broth first and then the meatballs, sprinkled with dried mint and sumac. A common mistake is using lean mince; the fat holds the big meatballs together and keeps them tender. Chef's tip: beat the mince with a little cold water until sticky and smooth, then wet your hands to shape; the balls will not crack around the plum. Minced lamb must reach 71 °C in the centre.

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Turshu govurma

Turshu govurma, 'sour fry', is a rich southern dish from Lankaran and Masalli: lamb browned in butter or oil, then cooked slowly with onions, chestnuts, dried apricots, sour plums and a good pour of narsharab pomegranate sauce until dark, glossy and sweet-sour. It is served on top of plov at weddings or on its own with bread. A common mistake is adding the dried fruit too early, which turns it to mush. Chef's tip: finish with a pinch of saffron water and a handful of fresh pomegranate seeds, which brighten the dark sauce.

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Morgh-e torsh

Morgh-e torsh is everyday Sunday cooking in Rasht and the villages of Gilan, where gardens overflow with herbs and the cooking leans sour rather than sweet. Chicken pieces are browned, then braised with a mountain of chopped coriander, parsley, mint and garlic chives, ground walnuts and sour plums, finished with verjuice or lemon until the sauce turns a deep olive green. It is eaten with kateh, the simple Caspian rice. A common mistake is adding the herbs raw to the pot; fry them first until dark and fragrant, or the sauce tastes grassy. Chef's tip: a beaten egg stirred in at the very end is how many Gilani grandmothers thicken and enrich the sauce.

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Vegetable Sindhi biryani

Sindhi biryani is the biryani of Karachi, Hyderabad and the rest of Sindh, and it is the one people order by the deg (a huge pot) for weddings, Eid lunches and every big family gathering. What makes it Sindhi is the tang and the heat: plenty of tomatoes, yogurt, whole green chillies and sour dried plums (aloo bukhara) in the masala, with chunks of potato that soak up all of it. This vegetable version keeps all of that and swaps the meat for potato, carrot, cauliflower and peas, layered with half-cooked basmati, fried onions, mint and saffron milk, then steamed shut. A common mistake is boiling the rice until soft before layering; take it out when a grain still has a firm white core, because it finishes in the steam. Chef's tip: fry the onions until deep brown but not black, and keep the oil they fried in; it carries their flavour into every layer.

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Goes well with dried sour plums