Oi sobagiStuffed cucumber kimchi
Oi sobagi is the kimchi of early summer, when Korean cucumbers are cheap and sweet and nobody wants to wait weeks for a ferment. Each cucumber is split in a cross, salted until bendy, and stuffed with a bright, garlicky filling of chives, carrot and chilli. It is ready in two days, crunchy and refreshing, perfect with barbecue or cold noodles. This vegan version uses salt and a splash of kelp stock in place of fish sauce. Use a clean glass or ceramic jar or kimchi box scalded with boiling water, and keep the vegetables pressed below the brine; anything sticking out can grow mould. The common mistake is cutting all the way through the ends, which makes the cucumber fall apart; leave 1 cm whole at each end. Chef's tip: salt the cucumbers in hot brine; it keeps them crunchier than dry salt.




