Pozharsky cutlet
Torzhok, a coaching town on the road between Moscow and St Petersburg, was famous for the tavern of the Pozharsky family, and travellers spread the word of its tender cutlets of chopped chicken bound with milk-soaked bread and cream. They became a classic of grand Russian restaurants and later of Soviet menus. Each cutlet hides a cube of cold butter that melts into the meat, and the coating of tiny bread cubes fries into a crunchy, golden shell. Serve with mashed potatoes or buttered peas. The usual slip is overworking the mince in a processor, which makes it rubbery; chop it by hand or pulse briefly. Cook until the centre reads 74 °C. Chef's tip: freeze the butter cubes for 15 minutes so they stay inside rather than leaking out in the pan.




