TempoyakFermented durian
When the durian season peaks in Pahang and Perak, from June to August, there are always more fallen, over-ripe fruit than anyone can eat, and the surplus becomes tempoyak. The flesh is mashed with salt, packed into a jar (traditionally a clay tajau) and left for a few days until it turns from sweet and custardy to pale, sharply sour and powerfully aromatic. In Temerloh it is cooked into gulai tempoyak ikan patin, a yellow river-fish curry; elsewhere it is pounded with chilli into sambal tempoyak for raw ulam, or stirred into stir-fried greens. Abroad, frozen durian flesh from Asian grocers works well once thawed. The salt level is about 3% of the flesh (15 g to 500 g); do not cut it. Common mistake: letting water in from washed hands, a damp spoon or the outside of the husk, which invites mould; keep everything dry and press out air pockets. It is ready when the colour has faded to ivory, it smells sour and fruity rather than sweet, and it tastes sharply tangy. Chef's tip: everyday kampung durians make better tempoyak than prized varieties; their sharper flavour ferments well.
Malaysian
Paraguayan
