Nethili varuvalFried masala anchovies
Nethili varuval is the Sunday fish fry of Chettinad and the Tamil coast from Rameswaram to Tuticorin, made with tiny fresh anchovies that are cheap, fast to clean and fried whole until crunchy enough to eat bones and all. A paste of chilli, ginger, garlic, fennel and lemon coats them, with a dusting of rice flour for crunch. They are eaten hot with rasam or sambar rice, or as a snack. The commonest mistake is crowding the pan, which steams the fish instead of crisping it; fry them in a single layer with space around each. Chef's tip: squeeze out every drop of water after cleaning and let the anchovies sit in the masala for only 15 minutes; longer and the salt draws out moisture.
























