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Peanut cookies (hua sheng bing)

Lift the lid on a Chinese New Year snack tray in Guangdong, Penang or Singapore and there will be these pale golden domes, so short they crumble the moment they touch your tongue. They are nothing but roasted peanuts ground fine, flour, icing sugar and oil, and this version skips the usual egg wash, so they are vegan. The mistake is over-grinding the peanuts into a paste, which makes the dough greasy and the cookies flat; stop while it is still a fine powder. Chef's tip: let them cool fully on the tray before moving them, because they are fragile until set.

40 min

Chinese Baking

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Goan prawn rissoles

Rissóis came to Goa with the Portuguese and never left: every Catholic household in Margao, Panjim or Mapusa has an aunt known for her rissoles, made by the tray for Christmas, weddings and christening parties. A soft, cooked flour dough is rolled thin, filled with a thick white sauce full of chopped prawns, green chilli and lime, folded into half-moons, crumbed and fried until golden and crunchy. Inside, the filling is creamy and gently peppery with a little heat. Use firm raw prawns that smell fresh of the sea; discard any that smell of ammonia or look slimy, and cook them only until pink and curled. The filling must be completely cold before you fill the pastries, or they burst. Crumbed rissoles freeze well for up to a month, so make them a week before the party and fry from frozen. Chef's tip: seal the edges with a little egg and press them with a fork; an unsealed edge is where the filling leaks into the oil.

90 min

Indian Fish

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PanakamJaggery and ginger water

On Sri Rama Navami, temples and homes across Andhra Pradesh, Telangana and Tamil Nadu set out brass pots of panakam beside neer mor (spiced buttermilk) and kosambari. The drink is offered first, then handed to everyone in small steel tumblers. It is nothing more than jaggery dissolved in water, but the dry ginger and black pepper give it a pleasant heat that cuts through the sweetness, and cardamom and a few tulsi leaves make it smell of the festival. It is never boiled; it's stirred until the jaggery melts. The common mistake is not straining: jaggery often carries sand and fibres, so always pour it through a fine cloth. Chef's tip: a squeeze of lemon is not traditional everywhere, but in hot Vijayawada summers many homes add it, and it brightens the drink wonderfully.

10 min

Indian Drinks

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Chicken sukkaDry coconut chicken masala

Kori sukka comes from the Bunt and Catholic kitchens of Mangaluru and Udupi, where it is cooked for village feasts, Monti Fest, weddings and slow Sunday lunches. 'Sukka' means dry: bone-in chicken is cooked in a fiery paste of roasted byadgi chillies, coriander, cumin, pepper and tamarind, then tossed with grated coconut that has been roasted to a deep brown until every piece is coated in a coarse, nutty, smoky masala. Byadgi chillies give a brilliant red colour with moderate heat, so the result is spicy but rounded. Cook the chicken to 74 °C at the thickest part before the coconut goes in. Serve with neer dosa, rice and a thin rasam, or with kori rotti. Common mistake: roasting the coconut over too high a heat; it burns from golden to bitter in seconds, so keep the flame low and stir constantly. Chef's tip: grind the masala coarse, not smooth, and add the roasted coconut only at the end so it keeps its texture.

60 min

Indian Chicken

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Pidiyum kozhiyumRice dumplings with chicken curry

Central Kerala's Syrian Christian families, from Kottayam to Thrissur, make this for Christmas and Easter mornings and for the gatherings that follow a wedding. The pidi are marble-sized balls of roasted rice flour and coconut, poached in water and then simmered in thick coconut milk with garlic, cumin and shallots until they sit in a creamy, gently savoury sauce. Alongside goes a fiery kozhi curry (chicken curry) of bone-in chicken in a coconut-oil masala of onion, ginger, chilli and fennel-scented garam masala, cooked until the chicken reaches 74 °C at the thickest part. Each plate gets a ladle of soft, mild pidi and a ladle of red curry, and the two run together. It takes a little time, so families often roll the pidi together while the curry simmers. Common mistake: mixing the rice flour with cold or lukewarm water; the dough cracks and the pidi fall apart in the pot. Chef's tip: use boiling water and knead while it is still hot, wrapped in a cloth.

110 min

Indian Chicken

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Murgh musallamStuffed whole chicken curry

Murgh musallam means 'whole chicken', and in Lucknow and Old Delhi it is still the showpiece that comes out at Eid or a wedding dawat, carved at the table. A whole skinned chicken, bought cleaned with the giblets removed (as supermarket birds come, without head or feet), is slashed deeply, marinated twice, stuffed with hard-boiled eggs and tied, then browned in ghee and slowly braised in a velvety gravy of browned onions, almonds, yogurt and whole spices with saffron and kewra. The flavour is rich, mildly spiced and fragrant rather than hot. Because the bird is cooked whole and stuffed, check the thickest part of the thigh with a probe: it must reach 74 °C before you serve it. Serve with sheermal, naan or plain pulao and a cucumber raita. Chef's tip: cook it in the smallest heavy pot the bird fits in snugly; the gravy then comes halfway up the chicken and it braises rather than fries.

120 min

Indian Chicken

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Rabodi ki sabziDried maize wafers in yogurt curry

In the Thar desert towns of Barmer, Jodhpur and Bikaner, green vegetables were scarce for much of the year, so women boiled maize flour with sour buttermilk in summer, spread it in thin rounds on cloth and dried it in the sun. Those rabodi keep for months and become this curry: fried until puffed, then simmered in a spiced yogurt gravy until soft and chewy. It is tangy, savoury and comforting, eaten with bajra roti or rice, and because it has no onion, garlic or fresh ginger, it suits a Jain or Marwari festive thali. A common mistake is letting the dahi gravy boil before it has been stirred to a boil with besan; it curdles. Whisk besan into the dahi and stir constantly until it comes to a boil. Chef's tip: fry the rabodi only until they puff and turn a shade darker; burnt rabodi taste bitter and stay hard in the gravy.

40 min

Indian Curries

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Khus sharbatVetiver root syrup drink

Before air-conditioning, North Indian houses hung wet mats of khus grass over their doors in June, and the breeze through them smelt of damp earth and wood. The same vetiver root flavours this sharbat, a summer staple in Delhi, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh. Shop-bought bottles are bright emerald green from colouring; a homemade syrup is pale gold and tastes far more of the root itself, cool and grassy. Families serve it diluted with water to guests arriving from the heat, or with cold milk as a dessert drink at summer parties. The common mistake is boiling the roots hard; the aroma is delicate and cooks off, so infuse them in hot water instead and add the infusion to the syrup off the heat. Chef's tip: if you want the classic green colour for children, a drop of green food colour does no harm, but taste it plain first.

30 min

Indian Drinks

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Aam pannaRaw mango cooler

When the first hard green mangoes arrive in April, kitchens from Lucknow to Pune start boiling them for panna. The cooked pulp is blended with roasted cumin, black salt, mint and sugar or jaggery into a thick concentrate that keeps in the fridge for a week, then diluted glass by glass with cold water. Grandmothers swear by it against loo, the hot dry wind of a North Indian summer, and in Maharashtra the same drink, called kairi panha, is served to guests at Gudi Padwa and haldi-kumkum gatherings. It tastes sour first, then sweet, then smoky from the cumin. A common mistake is using mangoes that have begun to ripen and turn yellow: the panna tastes flat and fruity rather than bracing, so pick firm, green, sour ones. Chef's tip: pressure cooking the mangoes whole in their skins keeps the pulp pale and fragrant; scraping too close to the skin and stone adds bitterness.

30 min

Indian Drinks

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PiyushShrikhand buttermilk drink

Piyush means nectar, and Pune and Mumbai Maharashtrians drink it on summer afternoons, at Gudi Padwa lunches when there is leftover shrikhand, or from old dairy shops near Dadar and Girgaon where it is sold in glass bottles. It sits between lassi and dessert: thick but pourable, sweet and gently sour, yellow with saffron and scented with cardamom and a whisper of nutmeg. It is lovely with a spicy batata vada or after a puran poli meal. The common mistake is pouring cold buttermilk straight onto stiff shrikhand, which leaves stubborn lumps; loosen the shrikhand with a little buttermilk first, then whisk in the rest. Chef's tip: bloom the saffron in a spoonful of warm milk; cold buttermilk won't pull the colour out.

10 min

Indian Drinks

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Chora nu shaakBlack-eyed pea curry

Chora nu shaak is a Sunday favourite in Surat and Baroda homes and one of the pulse shaaks that rotate through a Jain kitchen in place of onion-based gravies. Black-eyed peas are cooked soft, then simmered in a thin tomato gravy built on a vaghar of mustard seed, cumin, hing, cloves and dry red chilli, sweetened with jaggery and sharpened with lemon in true Gujarati style. Dry ginger powder replaces fresh ginger, and there is no onion or garlic. The gravy should be loose enough to soak into rotli or rice, with a few beans mashed to give it body. A common mistake is adding tomato and jaggery before the beans are fully soft; acid and sugar keep them hard however long you cook them. Chef's tip: let the shaak rest for 10 minutes before serving; the chora drink up the gravy and the flavours round out.

45 min

Indian Curries

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Mag nu shaakDry whole green moong

Wednesday is mag day in many Gujarati homes, and in Jain families this is how it is cooked: whole green moong soaked overnight, pressure-cooked until just soft, then tossed in a vaghar of mustard seed, ajwain and hing with green chilli and dry ginger powder instead of fresh ginger, and no onion or garlic at all. A pinch of jaggery and a squeeze of lemon give it the gentle sweet-sour taste Gujaratis expect. It's a dry shaak, each bean whole and coated, eaten with rotli, or with kadhi-bhaat for a light, very satisfying meal. A common mistake is overcooking the moong until it bursts and turns to mush; two whistles is enough, and the beans should still hold their shape. Chef's tip: save the cooking water; a few spoons loosen the shaak if it looks too dry, and the rest makes a lovely mag nu osaman with a little lemon and vaghar.

40 min

Indian Curries

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Nannari sarbathSarsaparilla and lime cooler

Walk past any sarbath kadai in Madurai, Tiruchi or Chennai's Parry's Corner in summer and you'll hear the clink of a glass being stirred with a long spoon. Nannari, the sweet, woody, vanilla-like root of Indian sarsaparilla, is cooked into a dark syrup; the vendor pours a little into a glass, squeezes in a whole lime, adds a pinch of salt and ice, and tops it with water or a fizz of soda. It is sweet, sharp and earthy all at once, and nothing like the milky jigarthanda made with the same syrup. Many shops add soaked sabja seeds for texture. The common mistake is too much syrup: the root flavour gets lost in sweetness, so start with less and let the lime lead. Chef's tip: squeeze the lime straight into the glass and drop in one squeezed half; a little oil from the peel gives that roadside freshness.

10 min

Indian Drinks

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DalchaMutton and lentil stew

No Hyderabadi Eid table or Sunday lunch feels complete without a pot of dalcha beside the bagara khana (spiced rice). This one is made with mutton, which in India means goat; bone-in pieces from the shoulder or neck give the best body, and lamb is a fine swap. The meat is cooked tender in a ginger-garlic and chilli masala, then married with soft chana dal, chunks of lauki (bottle gourd) and a good sharp hit of tamarind, and finished with a sizzling baghaar of garlic, dried red chillies and curry leaves. The result is thick but pourable, tangy, gently hot and deeply savoury. During Muharram many homes make it with mutton bones only, and a vegetarian version simply leaves out the meat and doubles the bottle gourd. Serve with bagara khana, a raw onion salad and lime. Chef's tip: make it a few hours ahead; dalcha thickens and tastes even better once the tamarind has settled in, so loosen it with hot water before serving.

95 min

Indian Curries

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Fa gao (prosperity cakes)Steamed rice flour cakes

Fa gao is the little cake on every Cantonese New Year altar in Guangzhou and in Chinatowns from Kuala Lumpur to London: the word 'fa' means both 'rise' and 'prosper', and the deeper the cross-shaped crack on top, the luckier the year. This quick version uses rice flour, a little wheat flour and baking powder, steamed hard so the tops burst open, and it is egg- and dairy-free. The mistake that stops them smiling is a gentle steamer; the water must be at a fierce rolling boil before the cups go in. Chef's tip: fill the cups right to the brim, so the batter has to split as it rises.

35 min

Chinese Baking

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Badam milkAlmond milk

In Hyderabad and Bengaluru, darshinis and Irani cafés sell badam milk from steaming steel urns, while in North Indian homes a hot glass of it is what you get after an exam or on a cold Delhi evening. It is creamy and nutty, tinted pale gold by saffron, and has fine, pleasant flecks of almond rather than being smooth like a shake. Chilled, it is sold in bottles all summer and served at weddings. Soaking and peeling the almonds is what makes it taste clean and sweet. A common mistake is grinding the almonds dry, which turns them oily and gritty; grind soaked almonds with a little milk to a fine paste. Chef's tip: simmer gently after adding the almond paste and keep stirring, because it settles and catches on the bottom of the pan within minutes.

25 min

Indian Drinks

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Kokum sharbatKokum cordial

Along the Konkan coast, from Ratnagiri down to Goa, the purple kokum fruit is split and dried in the sun every summer, and the leathery rinds go into curries, sol kadhi and this sharbat. Unlike sol kadhi, there is no coconut milk here: just a clear, deep-red syrup that is fruity, tart and faintly salty, diluted with cold water and drunk after a fish lunch or on a hot afternoon to cool the stomach. Families in Malvan and Sawantwadi still make the concentrate by layering fresh fruit with sugar in jars; this quicker version uses the dried rinds you can buy anywhere. The common mistake is boiling the kokum hard for a long time, which makes the syrup taste stewed and murky; simmer gently just until the colour floods out. Chef's tip: a pinch of roasted cumin and black salt in the glass turns a simple sweet drink into the proper coastal version.

15 min

Indian Drinks

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Bel sharbatWood apple drink

Bael trees grow beside temples across Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, and in May the hard golden fruits are cracked open on the doorstep with a pestle. The orange pulp smells of tamarind, marmalade and rose, and mashed into water it makes a thick, pulpy sharbat that people in Patna, Prayagraj and Gorakhpur drink mid-morning to keep the heat at bay; it is also famously kind to the stomach. Rickshaw stalls sell it from big steel pots. Ripe fruit is essential: it should sound hollow when tapped and smell sweet. The common mistake is blending the pulp in a mixer, which crushes the seeds and sticky fibres and makes the drink bitter and gluey; soak it and mash by hand instead. Chef's tip: let the pulp soak a full 15 minutes before mashing, and it practically falls off the fibres.

20 min

Indian Drinks

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Masala chaasSpiced buttermilk

No Gujarati lunch is finished until the steel glass of chaas comes round. From Ahmedabad pols to Kathiyawadi farmhouses, homemade dahi is thinned right down, churned with a wooden ravai or a blender, and seasoned with roasted cumin, black salt, a little ginger and green chilli, then poured ice-cold after dal-bhaat-shaak-rotli. It should be thin enough to drink in one go, salty, gently hot and full of coriander; that is what settles a heavy meal in May. Kerala's sambaram, with shallot and curry leaf, is a close cousin. A common mistake is churning thick, very cold full-fat dahi for too long: the fat clumps into flecks of butter and the chaas turns thin and greasy. Blend the dahi with only part of the water for a few seconds, then stir in the rest. Chef's tip: dahi that is a day old and slightly sour makes the best chaas; very fresh, sweet dahi tastes flat however much masala you add.

10 min

Indian Drinks

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Mango mastaniMango milkshake with ice cream

Pune's mastani was born in the city's old peths, and families still queue on summer evenings at the famous shops near Budhwar Peth and Sadashiv Peth for a tall glass so thick you need a spoon. The base is a mango milkshake, made dense with ripe Alphonso pulp and ice cream, then topped with another scoop of mango ice cream, chopped nuts, tutti frutti and a cherry. It is named, people say, after Bajirao Peshwa's beloved Mastani. Rich and fruity, it is dessert and a cool drink in one. A common mistake is adding ice to the blender: it thins the shake and dulls the mango, so chill the milk and pulp well instead. Chef's tip: Alphonso from Ratnagiri or Devgad gives the right colour and fragrance; in the off season use good tinned Alphonso pulp and skip the sugar.

10 min

Indian Drinks

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JaljeeraTamarind mint cumin drink

Street vendors in Old Delhi and Varanasi sell jaljeera from big red clay matkas wrapped in wet cloth, ladling it into glasses with a handful of boondi on top. The name simply means cumin water, but the flavour is busier than that: sour tamarind and lemon, a cool rush of mint, the sulphur note of black salt and the warmth of roasted cumin and dry ginger. It is drunk before a heavy Punjabi meal to wake the appetite, at summer weddings, and on long train journeys. Make the masala fresh and the difference shows. The common mistake is using raw cumin powder; it tastes dusty. Dry-roast whole cumin until it darkens a shade and smells toasty, then grind it. Chef's tip: add the boondi only at the table so it stays crunchy for the first sip and softens by the last.

13 min

Indian Drinks

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Kulukki sarbathShaken lime cooler

Kulukki means shaken, and the show is half the fun: at roadside stalls in Kozhikode, Kochi and Thrissur, the vendor drops lime, a slit green chilli, basil seeds, syrup and ice into a tall steel tumbler, caps it with another and rattles it furiously before pouring a frothy glass. The drink became a craze across Kerala in the 2010s and is now a beach and festival favourite. It tastes sharp, sweet, salty and then hot as the chilli catches the back of your throat. Some stalls add pineapple or passion fruit. The common mistake is crushing the lime and chilli too hard or leaving them to sit, which makes the drink bitter from the peel and far too fiery; shake briefly and pour at once. Chef's tip: use a jar with a tight lid half filled with ice; the ice does the crushing and makes the foam.

10 min

Indian Drinks

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Doi maachFish in spiced yogurt gravy

At a Bengali wedding feast or on Jamai Shashthi, when sons-in-law are fed like kings, doi maach is the fish course everyone waits for. Thick steaks of rohu or katla, the big freshwater carp of Bengal's ponds, are rubbed with turmeric and salt, fried in sharp mustard oil and then simmered in a pale, creamy gravy of whisked yogurt, ginger and onion paste and whole garam masala, sweetened just enough to balance the tang. It is mild and fragrant rather than hot. Carp has fine bones, so eat it slowly. Cook the fish until it is opaque and flakes easily from the bone. Serve with steamed gobindobhog or plain white rice, and a squeeze of gondhoraj lime if you can find it. Common mistake: tipping cold yogurt straight into hot oil, which splits it into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk the yogurt with the spice powders and a spoonful of the hot gravy first, then add it over the lowest heat.

50 min

Indian Fish

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Meen acharFish pickle

Every Kerala Christian and Muslim household seems to keep a jar of meen achar somewhere, especially at Christmas, when it is made in big batches and packed for relatives working in the Gulf. Firm fish, usually neymeen (seer fish or king mackerel) or tuna, is cut into small cubes, rubbed with chilli and turmeric and fried in gingelly (sesame) oil until crisp and fully cooked through, opaque and firm. The pieces are then folded into a fierce masala of garlic, ginger, green chilli and curry leaves with plenty of chilli powder and vinegar, and left for two days to soak it all up. It is hot, sour and garlicky, a little goes a long way with curd rice, kanji or a plate of rice and dal. Use a sterilised, completely dry jar, keep the pieces under a layer of oil and always use a clean, dry spoon. Store it in the fridge and eat within 4 weeks; throw it away if you see mould or it smells off. Chef's tip: fry the fish until it sounds hollow and crisp; any moisture left inside is what spoils fish pickle.

60 min

Indian Fish

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