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KantarelltoastChanterelle toast

Kantarelltoast is the dish Swedes wait all year for: in August and September, after a day picking golden chanterelles in the forests from Småland to Norrland, they fry them in butter with shallot, add a splash of cream and pile them on toast for a quick supper or starter. The mushrooms are peppery and almost apricot-scented, and the cream turns them silky. If you forage, only eat mushrooms you are certain of; shop-bought chanterelles are safest. The most common mistake is washing chanterelles under the tap, which makes them soggy; brush them clean and dry-fry them first to drive off their water. Chef's tip: a little grated Västerbotten-style hard cheese on top is classic, but check it is made with vegetarian rennet.

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GubbröraEgg and anchovy spread

Gubbröra, 'old man's mix', is a Swedish classic for the smörgåsbord and the Friday-night snack plate: chopped hard-boiled eggs folded with Swedish anchovies, red onion, dill and chives in sour cream, piled onto dark rye bread or crispbread. It is found on Midsummer and Christmas tables but is quick enough for a light supper any evening. Swedish 'ansjovis' are sprats cured in a sweet spiced brine, milder than Mediterranean salted anchovies; if you use those, halve the amount. The usual mistake is mixing the eggs while still warm, which turns the whole thing into a sloppy paste, so cool them in iced water first. Chef's tip: chop eggs and anchovies by hand into rough 5 mm pieces for a spread with texture.

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Røræg og purløgScrambled egg and chive sandwich

In Copenhagen lunch cellars and on Danish Easter tables, a slice of buttered rye topped with cool, set scrambled egg and a thick green blanket of chives is one of the gentlest smørrebrød of all. The egg is cooked slowly with a little milk, then left to cool so it can be cut into neat slices rather than spooned on loose. It is eaten with a knife and fork, usually early in the lunch order before the fish and meat. A common mistake is cooking the eggs over a high heat, which makes them weep water onto the bread. Chef's tip: set the egg in a small buttered dish in a low oven or water bath, chill it, then slice it like a firm custard.

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ÆggemadEgg and tomato rye sandwich

The Danish madpakke (packed lunch) is a stack of rugbrød slices, each with its own pålæg, and æggemad is the one that shows up in every family's box: dense rye, a smear of butter or mayonnaise, rounds of hard-boiled egg and tomato, and a tuft of cress. In the box, the slices are separated by baking paper so the toppings don't smudge. The common mistake is undercooking the eggs, so the yolk smears and the slices fall apart; for lunchboxes, the yolk must be fully set. Chef's tip: slice the egg with an egg slicer or a wet knife once it is completely cold, and the rounds stay neat.

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Toast SkagenPrawn toast with dill mayonnaise

Toast Skagen was created in the 1950s by the Stockholm restaurateur Tore Wretman, named after the fishing port of Skagen at the tip of Denmark where he had sailed; it is still the starter Swedes order at old-fashioned Stockholm restaurants and make for birthdays at home. Peeled prawns are folded into a dill, lemon and mayonnaise dressing, piled on bread fried in butter and crowned with a spoon of fish roe. The roe is cured and uncooked, so it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system; leave it off for them. A common mistake is using watery thawed prawns, which make the dressing thin. Chef's tip: drain the prawns well on kitchen paper, and fry the bread only at the last minute so it is still crisp when the topping goes on.

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SmörgåstårtaSavoury sandwich cake

Smörgåstårta is what Swedes bring out for christenings, graduations and big birthdays: a 'sandwich cake' of soft bread layers filled with creamy egg, cheese and vegetable fillings, frosted with cream cheese and smetana and decorated as lavishly as a gateau with cucumber, radish, tomato and dill. In Stockholm bakeries the classic is layered with prawns and smoked salmon; this version keeps it vegetarian with egg mayonnaise, herby cheese and avocado. A common mistake is using fresh, very soft bread, which turns soggy; slightly firm sandwich bread holds the layers. Chef's tip: assemble it the night before and chill it under cling film; it firms up and slices neatly, then decorate just before serving.

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KarjalanpiirakkaRye pastries with rice filling

Karjalanpiirakka come from Karelia, the borderland of eastern Finland, and are now baked in every Finnish home and sold in every Helsinki market hall. The open, oval pies have a crust of rye dough rolled paper-thin and crimped by hand around a filling of creamy rice porridge. Straight from a very hot oven they are brushed with butter and milk to soften, then eaten warm with munavoi, egg butter: chopped hard-boiled egg mashed into soft butter. Finns eat them for breakfast, at coffee tables and at weddings and funerals alike. The crimping looks fiddly but goes quickly after the first few. Chef's tip: make the rice porridge a day ahead; cold porridge is stiff enough to spread neatly and won't soak the thin crust.

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Tamia (Arabian fritters)Sesame-coated chickpea fritters

Tamia is the Egyptian cousin of falafel: soaked raw chickpeas are ground with dill, coriander, onion, garlic, chilli and cumin, shaped into small patties, coated with sesame seeds and deep-fried until crisp and golden outside and green and fluffy inside. Serve hot with coconut and tamarind chutneys, or tuck them into pitta with salad.

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Falafel in pitta

A full falafel meal: crisp chickpea fritters flavoured with fenugreek, spinach, chilli and ginger are stuffed into pitta pockets spread with hummus and tahini, then packed with a crunchy cabbage, cucumber and carrot salad and a fiery home-made red chilli sauce. Serve with green, red and tamarind chutneys.

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