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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

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Ciorbă de mielSoured lamb soup

Romanian Easter Sunday lunch, after the Resurrection service at midnight and the long Lenten fast, always includes ciorbă de miel: a sour soup of young lamb with spring onions, green garlic, rice and lovage, soured with borș (fermented bran liquid) or lemon and finished with a liaison of egg and soured cream. It is light, tangy and very green, a taste of spring. Chef's tip: temper the egg and cream with ladlefuls of hot soup before stirring them in, or they will scramble.

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BorstplaatSugar fondant sweets

Borstplaat is the sweet of Sinterklaas in the Netherlands: small, melt-in-the-mouth discs or hearts of boiled sugar and cream or milk with a little butter, flavoured with coffee, vanilla or strawberry. Children find them in their shoes on the morning of 5 December alongside pepernoten and a chocolate letter. They need only a few ingredients and a little care, and are gluten free. Chef's tip: stir the cooled syrup until it turns cloudy and starts to thicken, then pour at once; that stirring forms the fine crystals that make borstplaat creamy.

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MarsepeinShaped almond paste

On pakjesavond, the Sinterklaas present evening on 5 December, Dutch children find marzipan in every shape: little pink pigs for luck, pieces of fruit, potatoes rolled in cocoa, and the first letter of their name. Homemade marsepein is simply finely ground almonds kneaded with icing sugar and a little egg white, then coloured and shaped, a lovely job to share with children. This recipe uses pasteurised egg white so it is safe raw. Chef's tip: knead in the colour with a toothpick's worth at a time; marzipan takes colour very quickly.

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Taai-taaiAnise and honey biscuits

In the Netherlands, taai-taai ('tough-tough') are chewy honey and anise biscuits shaped into figures of Sinterklaas, his horse, windmills, sweethearts and animals, eaten from mid-November until his feast on 5 December. They contain no fat or egg, so they are firm and chewy rather than crisp, and they keep well. Bakers once used carved wooden moulds; cookie cutters work fine. Chef's tip: heat the honey only until runny, then let the dough rest overnight; the rest is what makes the chew.

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Qush tiliFried dough diamonds with sugar

At Uzbek weddings and family feasts the dastarkhan tea table is crowded with sweets, and qush tili, 'bird's tongues', are the small, crisp ones that children grab by the handful. A simple dough of flour, egg, milk and a little butter is rolled thin, cut into little diamonds and fried until puffed and pale gold, then showered with icing sugar. The common mistake is frying in oil that is too hot, which browns them before the centres crisp. Chef's tip: cut a short slit in the middle of each diamond and they puff into lighter, crunchier tongues.

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Iahnie de fasoleWhite bean stew

Iahnie de fasole is one of the most loved dishes of the Romanian Orthodox fasting periods: the seven weeks of Great Lent before Easter, and the Christmas fast. White beans are cooked until creamy, then baked or simmered with a lot of slowly fried onion, tomato paste, bay, thyme and paprika until thick and sweet. It is vegan, high in protein and eaten with pickles and bread. Chef's tip: fry the onion slowly in plenty of oil until golden and jammy; the onion is the heart of the stew.

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Kulche khetayeeCardamom pistachio shortbread

When guests come to an Afghan home over Nowruz or the days of Eid, they are poured green tea and offered a plate of kulche khetayee, crumbly round shortbreads that dissolve on the tongue. In Kabul the dough is made with clarified butter or oil, icing sugar and cardamom, and each biscuit is topped with a pinch of ground pistachio before baking very gently so they stay pale. The common mistake is baking too hot: the biscuits should be cream-coloured, not golden, or they lose their melting texture. Chef's tip: let them cool fully on the tray, because they are too fragile to move while warm.

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PepernotenAnise and honey spice drops

When Sinterklaas arrives in the Netherlands in mid-November, his helpers throw handfuls of pepernoten into the crowd and children find them in their shoes in the morning, until the big present evening of 5 December. Real pepernoten are the old-fashioned kind: soft, chewy, slightly irregular drops of rye flour, honey, anise and spice, paler and chewier than the crunchy kruidnoten sold today. This egg-free dough comes together in minutes. Chef's tip: let the dough rest for an hour so the honey softens the rye and the drops come out chewy, not cakey.

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Ko'k somsaWild greens baked pastries

Ko'k somsa, 'green somsa', is made across Uzbekistan in the weeks around Navruz, when the first wild greens and herbs push through and families celebrate them in everything. Triangles of thin dough are packed with chopped spinach, sorrel, dill, coriander and spring onion, seasoned only with salt, pepper and a little butter, then baked until golden. They are eaten warm with green tea and sumalak. The common mistake is leaving the greens raw and wet, which makes the pastry soggy; wilt and squeeze them first. Chef's tip: brush the tops with egg yolk and scatter black sesame for the classic bakery shine.

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OranjekoekAlmond paste cake with orange icing

On Koningsdag, 27 April, the whole of the Netherlands turns orange: flea markets fill the streets, boats crowd the canals and bakeries sell oranjekoek, a buttery cake with a hidden layer of almond paste under a thick orange glaze. It is cut into neat squares and eaten with coffee between bargain hunting. The almond paste filling is like the one in gevulde koek, sweet and lemony. Chef's tip: let the cake cool fully before icing, or the glaze slides off and goes patchy.

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

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Pomana porculuiFresh pork fry-up

St Ignatius' Day (Ignatul), 20 December, is when Romanian villages traditionally slaughter the pig for Christmas, and the people who help are thanked with pomana porcului: chunks of the freshest pork (neck, belly and loin, sometimes liver) fried in their own fat with salt and garlic, then eaten hot with polenta, pickles and a glass of plum brandy for the adults. At home it is a quick, rustic dish; buy pork shoulder or neck with a good amount of fat. Chef's tip: start the pork in a cold pan so the fat renders slowly and the meat fries in it.

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

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Gevulde speculaasAlmond-filled spiced pastry

Gevulde speculaas is a Sinterklaas favourite in the Netherlands from November to 5 December: a thick layer of almond paste baked between two layers of buttery, brown-sugar speculaas dough full of cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and ginger, decorated with blanched almonds and cut into squares. It is rich and best with a cup of coffee or hot chocolate. Chef's tip: make the almond paste a day ahead and let the dough rest overnight too, so the spices mellow and the layers bake evenly.

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

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AllerheiligenstriezelBraided sweet loaf

In Bavaria and Austria, godparents give their godchildren an Allerheiligenstriezel on All Saints' Day, 1 November: a large braided loaf of sweet yeast dough, brushed with egg and scattered with almonds or pearl sugar. The braid is said to recall the old custom of cutting a plait of hair in mourning, and the size of the loaf once showed how generous the godparent was. It is lightly sweet, with lemon and vanilla, and is eaten sliced with butter or jam. Some recipes add rum-soaked raisins; these are soaked in warm water instead. Chef's tip: braid four strands for an impressive, high loaf.

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

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Sopa teólogaTurkey broth with bread and cheese

Sopa teóloga ('the theologian's soup') goes back to colonial convents in Lima and Arequipa, where it was cooked for feast days, and it is still served at Holy Week and family celebrations. A rich turkey (or chicken) broth is thickened with soaked bread, milk and fresh cheese, with yellow potatoes and shreds of turkey, and finished with a little ají amarillo and chopped huacatay or parsley. It is thick, comforting and filling. Chef's tip: blend part of the soaked bread with broth before adding it, which gives the soup its creamy body without lumps.

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KerstkransjesAlmond butter ring biscuits

In the Netherlands, kerstkransjes are small, ring-shaped butter biscuits topped with flaked almonds and pearl sugar, traditionally threaded with a ribbon and hung on the Christmas tree for children to pick off. They are tender and buttery with a lemony crumb and a crunchy top, and keep well in a tin through the holidays. They take about 45 minutes from start to finish. Chef's tip: punch the centre hole slightly bigger than you want; it shrinks as the biscuits bake.

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DuivekaterLemon Christmas bread

Duivekater is an old festive bread from Holland and Zeeland, baked for St Nicholas, Christmas and New Year's Eve. It is a long, flat, glossy loaf of rich, lemon-scented sweet dough, shaped with cuts at both ends that curl like a bone or a pair of legs; bakers once also made it for church feast days. Slices are eaten with butter. Chef's tip: give the shaped loaf a full second rise before cutting the ends, or the cuts close up in the oven.

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Mâncare de mazăreStewed green peas

In Romanian homes from Bucharest to the villages of Moldavia, mâncare de mazăre is a weekday lunch all year and a mainstay of the Orthodox fasting days, when the table is meat-free; it is eaten with mămăligă (polenta) or bread and a pickle or two. Peas simmer gently with soft onion and carrot in a light tomato sauce, and a handful of dill goes in at the end. A portion gives about 14 g of protein from the peas, so it isn't a high-protein dish on its own; serve it with polenta and a chunk of bread, or a fried egg on top if you eat eggs. The most common mistake is boiling the peas for too long, which turns them khaki and mushy. Chef's tip: thicken the sauce with a teaspoon of flour fried in the oil before the tomato goes in, as Romanian cooks do, or leave it out to keep the dish gluten free.

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ParihuelaSpicy seafood soup

Parihuela is the big weekend seafood soup of Callao and the Peruvian coast, eaten at long Sunday lunches in cevicherías and praised as a cure for tiredness and late nights. A deep red broth of ají panca, ají amarillo, tomato and fish stock is loaded with chunks of fish, prawns, squid and mussels. A portion gives about 30 g of protein, from the fish and shellfish, for roughly 300 kcal. Some cooks add chicha de jora or beer; this version has none. The common mistake is adding all the seafood at once: squid and prawns turn rubbery while the fish cooks, so they go in last. Before cooking, discard any mussels that stay open when tapped, and after cooking discard any that stay shut. Chef's tip: fry the chilli pastes in the oil until they darken and smell sweet; that toasted ají is what gives parihuela its depth.

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