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388 recipes

Banann pezeTwice-fried green plantain

Banann peze, pressed plantain, is the crunchy side that comes with griot and fried fish in every Port-au-Prince restaurant and at Haitian family parties from Cap-Haïtien to Miami. Thick slices of green plantain are fried until just soft, smashed flat, dipped in garlicky salted water and fried again until golden and crackling at the edges. Pile them beside the vinegary cabbage relish pikliz. The usual mistake is frying them hot the first time, which browns the outside before the inside cooks, so the smashed slices crack and stay hard in the centre. They are done when deep golden, crisp at the edges and tender inside. Chef's tip: the quick dip in garlic-lime salt water between fries is the Haitian secret; it seasons them right through and makes them extra crisp.

25 min

Haitian Sides

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Platte kaas met radijsjesQuark and radish on brown bread

In Flanders the evening meal is often a boterham, a plate of open bread slices, and one of the most loved toppings in Ghent and Antwerp is platte kaas: fresh, soft quark seasoned with chives, salt and pepper, spread thickly on brown bread and covered with crunchy radish slices. It is cool, light and ready in five minutes, a good supper after a big lunch. Some quark and fresh cheeses are set with a little animal rennet, so check the label for a vegetarian one. The common mistake is using thin, low-fat quark straight from the tub, which is watery and slides off the bread; stir it well and drain off any liquid first. Chef's tip: slice the radishes paper-thin and salt them only at the moment you serve, so they stay crisp.

5 min

Belgian Snacks & Starters

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DouaraLamb tripe and chickpea stew

Douara is the dish that fills Algerian kitchens on the second day of Eid al-Adha, when the tripe, intestines and lung from the family's sacrifice are cleaned, cut small and stewed slowly with chickpeas, plenty of garlic, cumin and paprika. The sauce is deep red and peppery and the offal turns tender and rich. At home, cleaned lamb or beef tripe and lamb heart from a halal butcher make an easy start; lung can be added if your butcher sells it. Chef's tip: blanch the tripe first in water with a squeeze of lemon to freshen the flavour before it goes into the stew.

180 min

Algerian Meat

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KesraSemolina pan bread

Kesra is the flat semolina bread of Algerian homes, and in Ramadan a fresh round sits on almost every iftar table, cooked on a clay tajine and torn into pieces to dip into hot chorba frik. This unleavened version is a thin, crumbly-edged galette, golden in patches and slightly chewy in the middle, with a nutty taste from the olive oil. It is made in minutes before sunset so it reaches the table still warm. Chef's tip: work the dough only until it holds together; kneading it like a yeast bread makes kesra tough instead of tender.

40 min

Algerian Breads & Parathas

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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AllerheiligenstriezelBraided sweet loaf

In Bavaria and Austria, godparents give their godchildren an Allerheiligenstriezel on All Saints' Day, 1 November: a large braided loaf of sweet yeast dough, brushed with egg and scattered with almonds or pearl sugar. The braid is said to recall the old custom of cutting a plait of hair in mourning, and the size of the loaf once showed how generous the godparent was. It is lightly sweet, with lemon and vanilla, and is eaten sliced with butter or jam. Some recipes add rum-soaked raisins; these are soaked in warm water instead. Chef's tip: braid four strands for an impressive, high loaf.

85 min

Austrian Baking

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Boudin blanc aux pommesWhite sausage with apple compote

In Liège and across Wallonia, Christmas Eve supper often begins with boudin blanc: pale, delicate sausages of finely minced pork and milk, sometimes with a little chicken, gently fried in butter until golden and served with warm, chunky apple compote and bread. Butchers make piles of them in December. Buy them fresh from a good butcher, or poached and ready to fry. Chef's tip: prick nothing and cook gently; boudin blanc is fragile, and a hot pan splits the skins.

30 min

Belgian Meat

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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Almond LondonChocolate-dipped almond cookies

Almond London is a Hari Raya favourite in Singapore and Malaysia, a whole roasted almond hidden in buttery cookie dough, baked, dipped in chocolate and rolled in chopped nuts. Nobody is sure where the name came from, but every Malay household fills a jar of them for Raya visits, and children hunt for the almond inside. They are crunchy, rich and not too sweet. Chef's tip: let the cookies cool completely before dipping, or the chocolate slides off and turns streaky.

75 min

Singaporean Baking

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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Kluay tak (Thai dried bananas, oven method)

In Bang Krathum, a district of Phitsanulok in lower northern Thailand, small nam wa bananas are peeled and laid out under the sun in glass-roofed drying boxes for several days, then pressed flat to make kluay tak. The district is famous for them, and bags are bought as a gift on the road home and nibbled with tea or coffee in the afternoon. They are dense and chewy like a soft toffee, dark amber, with a deep caramel and honey flavour that comes only from the fruit. As sun-drying takes days and needs steady heat, this version uses a very low oven overnight, then a rest in a jar so the moisture evens out. They are naturally egg-free and need nothing to bind them: the banana's own sugars concentrate and hold it together. Chef's tip: keep the oven low and prop the door open with a wooden spoon; the common mistake is a hot oven, which cooks and blackens the outside while the centre stays wet.

1340 min

Thai Desserts

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Yusheng (lo hei prosperity salad)

In Singapore and Malaysia, Chinese New Year meals often begin with lo hei: everyone stands round a platter of yusheng and tosses it high with chopsticks, calling out wishes, because the higher the toss, the better the year. Yu sounds like 'abundance' and each topping added has its own blessing, from the oil (money flowing in) to the golden crackers (a floor of gold). The traditional version uses raw fish; this home version uses smoked salmon, or salmon bought frozen as sashimi-grade and kept below 5 °C, and raw fish is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. For them, use smoked salmon or poached salmon, or leave the fish out for a vegetarian toss. Expect a crunchy, sweet-sour, nutty salad with a sticky plum dressing. Chef's tip: squeeze the shredded vegetables dry in a cloth; wet radish drowns the dressing and goes limp.

50 min

Singaporean Salads

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Krathong thong (crispy golden cups with chicken)

Krathong thong, "golden baskets", are named after the little floating krathong set on the rivers at Loy Krathong in Central Thailand, and their golden colour makes them a party bite for wishing wealth at festivals and New Year gatherings. A thin rice-flour batter is fried on a hot flower-shaped mould into crisp, delicate cups that shatter at the first bite. The filling is minced chicken cooked with sweetcorn, carrot, garlic and a little sugar, so it is gently sweet and savoury, which children love. Serve them as a starter with a sweet chilli dip, filling the cups just before serving so they stay crisp. Chef's tip: the cups keep for a week in an airtight tin, so fry them a day ahead and only cook the filling on the day.

60 min

Thai Snacks & Starters

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Hae bee hiam rolls (spicy prawn rolls)

Lift the lid of the cookie jars in a Singapore or Malaysian home at Chinese New Year and among the pineapple tarts you will find these tiny, fiery hae bee hiam rolls. Hae bee hiam is a sambal of dried shrimp fried slowly with chilli, shallots and lemongrass until it is dry, crumbly and fragrant, and rolled into thin spring-roll pastry it makes a crunchy, salty-sweet, spicy snack that disappears by the handful; the golden rolls look like gold bars for a prosperous year. Serve them with tea or a cold drink. Chef's tip: cook the sambal until it is completely dry and floss-like; any moisture left will make the rolls soft within a day.

120 min

Singaporean Snacks & Starters

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Kalamae (Thai coconut caramel sticky rice sweet)

Kalamae is the Songkran sweet of Central Thailand: in villages, neighbours take turns at a huge wok for hours, and the finished trays go to monks and elders at the New Year, the long shared stirring standing for a community pulling together and the sweetness for a sweet year ahead. Glutinous rice flour, coconut milk and palm sugar slowly turn from milky beige to a deep mahogany paste that is chewy, a little smoky and rich with coconut. Cut it into small squares and serve with jasmine tea, or wrap the pieces in banana leaf to give away. A home batch takes about two and a half hours at the stove, so put on some music and keep a wooden spoon moving. Chef's tip: use the widest heavy pan you own; more surface means faster thickening and less risk of scorching.

180 min

Thai Desserts

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Itek sio (Nyonya coriander duck)

Itek sio is a Peranakan braise that Nyonya cooks in Singapore make for Chinese New Year and other family feasts; duck is a celebration meat, and a rich, glossy pot of it says the household is doing well. Duck legs are rubbed with tamarind and soy, then simmered slowly with a heap of shallots and a generous amount of freshly ground coriander seed until the meat almost falls from the bone and the sauce turns thick, dark, sweet-sour and fragrant. Serve it with plain rice and a sharp sambal or pickles to cut the richness. Chef's tip: toast the coriander seeds before grinding; the warm, citrusy smell is the whole point of the dish.

125 min

Singaporean Meat

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Bak kwa (barbecued dried pork)

Before Chinese New Year, queues snake round the bak kwa shops of Singapore and Malaysia, because these sweet, smoky sheets of pork are the gift everyone brings when visiting family; their deep red colour stands for luck. At home you can make them from minced pork mixed with sugar, soy, fish sauce and a splash of Shaoxing rice wine, spread thin, dried in a low oven and then grilled until caramelised and blistered at the edges, chewy and sticky-sweet. For an alcohol-free version, swap the Shaoxing wine for the same amount of unsalted stock with a few drops of rice vinegar. Eat it warm on its own, or tucked into a soft white bun. Chef's tip: roll the mince between two sheets of baking paper to 2–3 mm; any thicker and it stays soft in the middle instead of turning into proper jerky.

180 min

Singaporean Meat

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Khao chae (jasmine-scented chilled rice)

Khao chae came to Central Thailand with the Mon people and became the classic Songkran lunch for the hottest days of April: rice served in iced, flower-scented water to cool the body and honour the New Year with something cool and fresh. The rice sits in its fragrant water, surrounded by little savoury bites eaten in turn: fried shrimp-paste balls (luk kapi), battered stuffed shallots and moo foi, sweet shredded pork fried until it is dry and caramelised. Each mouthful is a bite of salty-sweet side followed by a spoon of cold, clean rice. Scent the water with food-safe, unsprayed jasmine flowers or a few drops of food-grade jasmine extract, never florist's flowers. Chef's tip: rinse the cooked rice to wash off its starch so the water stays clear and the grains stay firm.

240 min

Thai Rice & Grains

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Hee peow soup (Nyonya fish maw soup)

Hee peow th'ng is a Peranakan soup that turns up at the Chinese New Year reunion dinner in Singapore, a clear, gentle bowl that sits beside the spicy dishes; fish maw is a luxury food and stands for plenty, and the round balls for a family that is whole. The fish maw is bought ready dried and fried in packets from Chinese grocers, then soaked until it is spongy and soaks up the savoury broth. With it go homemade pork meatballs, bought fish balls, napa cabbage and carrot, all in a broth made from pork bones and chicken. Serve it with rice and a little sambal on the side. Chef's tip: squeeze the soaked maw hard in several changes of water; it rinses out the old frying oil so the soup stays clean.

120 min

Singaporean Soups

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Bakwan kepiting (crab and pork meatball soup)

Bakwan kepiting is the Peranakan soup that Nyonya families in Singapore serve at the Chinese New Year reunion dinner; the round meatballs stand for a family gathered whole and complete. The balls are minced pork and sweet crab meat, bound with egg and bulked with shredded bamboo shoot, and they simmer in a clear, gently garlicky pork broth until tender and springy. This home version uses pasteurised cooked crab meat instead of live crabs, so it is easier and kinder. Serve it in small bowls with fried garlic and rice, before the richer curries. Chef's tip: keep the broth at a lazy simmer once the balls go in; a rolling boil clouds the soup and breaks them apart.

90 min

Singaporean Soups

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Khao niao daeng (Thai red sticky rice)

Khao niao daeng, "red sticky rice", is made in Central Thailand in the days before Songkran and carried to the temple as an offering, its sticky grains a wish that family ties hold fast through the year. The rice is steamed first, then folded into a long-reduced coconut and palm sugar caramel until it turns a glossy red-brown and every grain is sweet, chewy and fragrant. Pressed into a tray, it slices neatly and keeps for a few days, so it is a good make-ahead sweet for a crowd. Serve squares with a sprinkle of toasted sesame and a cup of tea. Chef's tip: reduce the caramel until it is thick and bubbling slowly before the rice goes in, or the rice turns mushy instead of chewy.

90 min

Thai Desserts

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