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Chicharrón de pescadoCrisp fried fish chunks

Up and down the Peruvian coast, from Chorrillos in Lima to the beaches of Piura, chicharrón de pescado is the crunchy plate ordered alongside ceviche at a long seafood lunch: bite-size chunks of firm white fish marinated briefly in garlic and lime, dusted in flour and fried, then served with fried cassava, salsa criolla and tartar or rocoto sauce. Using frozen peeled cassava keeps it to half an hour. The common mistake is leaving the fish in the lime too long: after about ten minutes the acid starts to 'cook' the outside and the coating slips off. Chef's tip: toss the floured pieces in a sieve to shake off every bit of loose flour; a thin coat fries crisp, a thick one turns pasty.

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Gaji bokkeumStir-fried aubergine

Gaji bokkeum is a summer banchan in Korean homes, cooked in the weeks when long, thin Korean aubergines fill the markets. Strips of aubergine are seared until soft and caramelised, then tossed in garlic, spring onion, soy sauce and sesame so they turn glossy and savoury-sweet. It sits beside rice and soup at dinner and keeps well in the lunchbox. The mistake is pouring in lots of oil at the start: aubergine soaks it all up and turns greasy. Chef's tip: sear the strips in a moderate amount of oil and add a splash of water if the pan dries; the steam softens them without more oil.

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TopfengolatschenSweet quark puff pastry squares

A Topfengolatsche is what Viennese office workers grab from the bakery on the way in, and what grandparents order with a Melange in a coffee house on a Sunday afternoon. The corners of a puff pastry square are folded over a lemony, vanilla-scented filling of Topfen (Austrian quark) with plump raisins, and the top gets a thin white glaze. It is flaky, light and not too sweet. Raisins are sometimes soaked in rum; warm water or orange juice works just as well, and the recipe below is alcohol-free. Wet quark is the classic problem, because it turns the filling runny and it leaks out in the oven. Chef's tip: hang the quark in a sieve lined with a clean cloth for an hour, or squeeze it, until it is as thick as soft cream cheese.

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Tallarines rojosSpaghetti in red sauce with chicken

Tallarines rojos is the Sunday-lunch and weeknight pasta of homes all over Peru, from Lima to Arequipa: spaghetti in a sweet, deep-red sauce of blended tomato, onion and garlic with a little ají panca and oregano, often with pieces of chicken cooked right in it. Children love it, and it is served with a sprinkle of grated cheese and sometimes a spoon of huancaína on the side. The usual mistake is cooking the sauce too briefly, so it tastes of raw onion; let the blended tomato fry until it darkens and the oil shows at the edges. Chef's tip: a bay leaf and a spoon of ají panca paste give the sauce its Peruvian character; paprika will do if you can't find the paste.

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Belgian frangipane tartlets

Look in the glass counter of a Flemish bakery and between the rice tarts and cream puffs sit rows of frangipanetaartjes: small shortcrust cases with a hidden layer of apricot jam, filled with almond frangipane and glazed with a thin, crackly white icing. Belgians pick them up on Saturday mornings or for a birthday at the office and eat them with coffee. They are buttery, nutty and moist, with a sharp fruity note from the jam. Too much jam is the mistake to watch: it bubbles up through the frangipane and glues the tartlets to the tin. Chef's tip: brush the warm tartlets with hot apricot jam first and let it set before the icing goes on; the jam seals the surface so the glaze stays white and shiny.

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Salpicón de aveCold chicken salad

Salpicón de ave is the cold supper of Argentine summers, made in Buenos Aires flats and on estancias alike when it is too hot to cook much, and a favourite way to use the chicken from a puchero or Sunday roast. Shredded chicken is mixed with diced pepper, tomato, spring onion, sweetcorn and boiled egg, bound with mayonnaise sharpened with lemon and mustard, and served chilled with crusty bread or on lettuce. The common mistake is dressing it while the chicken is still hot, which melts the mayonnaise into an oily puddle; let everything cool first. Chef's tip: dress the chicken with the lemon juice and a pinch of salt before the mayonnaise goes in, so the meat itself is seasoned, not just its coating.

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Tarta de coco y dulce de lecheCoconut and dulce de leche tart

Ask Argentinians for their favourite tart at a family birthday and this one often wins: a crisp shortcrust spread thickly with dulce de leche, then covered with a coconut, sugar and egg topping that bakes into a golden, chewy crust. Bakeries from Córdoba to Mar del Plata sell it by the slice for the merienda with mate or a café con leche. It is very sweet, so the slices are thin, and it is a good keeper for a few days. Ordinary spreading dulce de leche is the mistake: it runs and bubbles out at the edges. Use the thicker pastry-style kind, sold in Argentina as 'repostero'. Chef's tip: chill the case with the dulce de leche spread on it for 15 minutes before adding the coconut, so the two layers stay distinct.

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Fideos con mantecaButtered noodles with cheese

Ask anyone from Buenos Aires to Córdoba what they ate when they came home late or felt poorly as a child, and the answer is often fideos con manteca: short pasta tossed with butter and a snowfall of grated queso rallado. It is the plainest dish in the Argentine home kitchen and the one people cook for themselves on a tired weeknight. The mistake that ruins it is draining the pasta bone-dry and adding cold cheese to a hot empty pan, which leaves greasy strands and clumps; a splash of cooking water makes a light, creamy coating instead. Argentine reggianito and Parmesan are made with animal rennet, so use a vegetarian hard cheese if needed. Chef's tip: grate the cheese very finely, like dust, so it melts on contact.

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Gamja bokkeumStir-fried potato strips

Gamja bokkeum is one of the banchan Korean mothers pack into lunchboxes and set out at dinner in Seoul and Busan: thin potato strips stir-fried with onion and carrot, seasoned only with salt, a little sesame oil and toasted sesame seeds. The strips should be tender and separate, with a slight bite, not crisp like chips and not mushy. The mistake is skipping the soak, so the surface starch makes the strips stick to each other and the pan and break up. Chef's tip: a quick soak in salted water also seasons the potato through.

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Janchi guksu (Korean banquet noodles)

Janchi guksu means banquet noodles, the bowl once served at Korean weddings and birthdays for long life, and now a quick lunch at markets from Seoul to Busan: thin somyeon in a clear, gently fishy broth of dried anchovy and kelp, topped with egg ribbons, courgette and a spoon of seasoned soy. The mistake is boiling the anchovies hard or too long, which makes the broth bitter and cloudy. Chef's tip: remove the anchovy heads and the dark gut before simmering for a cleaner, sweeter stock.

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Pejerrey arrebozadoBattered fish fillets with onion salsa

Pejerrey arrebozado is a Lima classic from the cevicherías and home kitchens of the coast, eaten at lunch on a plate with white rice, a heap of sharp salsa criolla and sometimes boiled potato. The pejerrey, a small silverside, is opened into butterflied fillets, dipped in a light egg-and-flour batter and fried golden. Outside Peru, use small fillets of whiting, sole, haddock or tilapia. The batter here uses sparkling water, not beer, so it is alcohol free. The common mistake is frying in oil that isn't hot enough: the batter drinks the oil and turns greasy, so test with a drop of batter first. Chef's tip: make the salsa criolla first and let the onion sit in lime for ten minutes; it softens its bite and turns a pretty pink.

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Torta de ricotaLemon ricotta tart

Italian families brought ricotta tarts to Buenos Aires and Rosario, and torta de ricota is now as Argentinian as mate: every panadería has one in the window, with a lattice of sweet, crumbly masa frola over a pale, lemon-scented ricotta filling. It is cut into wedges for the merienda, the late-afternoon snack, or for a birthday where nobody wants a heavy cake. The texture is light and slightly grainy rather than silky, and the pastry tastes of butter and vanilla. Wet ricotta is the biggest risk, giving a weeping, soggy tart. Chef's tip: drain the ricotta overnight in the fridge in a sieve lined with a cloth, and add a few raisins only if they have been soaked, or they draw moisture from the filling.

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CraquelinBrioche with sugar cube pockets

Sugar cubes, of all things, are the secret of the Belgian craquelin. Bakers in Ghent, Bruges and Brussels wrap broken cubes inside rich brioche, and as the loaf bakes they melt into little wells of syrup that set crunchy, while pearl sugar crackles on the crust (hence the name). It is a Sunday breakfast and weekend bakery loaf, sliced thick and eaten plain or with butter and a bowl of café au lait; Flemish bakers sometimes add orange zest. Leaving sugar pieces exposed on the outside, especially the base, is the usual pitfall: they caramelise, burn and glue the loaf to the tin. Chef's tip: chill the kneaded brioche for at least an hour before you fold in the sugar, so the butter firms and the dough is easy to wrap around the cubes.

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Soya bokkeum (sausage and vegetable stir-fry)

The name joins 'sausage' and 'vegetables' (yachae), and soya bokkeum is a staple banchan in Korean children's lunchboxes and on cheap and cheerful dinner tables: scored sausages and colourful peppers stir-fried in a glossy ketchup and soy glaze. It is sweet, a little tangy and tastes as good cold as hot. Adults often add a spoonful of gochujang. It contains soya and wheat (soy sauce) and sesame; check your sausages for milk. Chef's tip: score the sausages diagonally; the cuts open up in the pan and catch the sauce.

15 minKoreanMeat
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Pan chutaAniseed round bread

The small town of Oropesa, half an hour from Cusco, calls itself Peru's bread capital, and its wood-fired bakeries are famous for chuta: big, flat, round loaves as wide as a dinner plate, glossy on top, with a faint sweetness and the warmth of aniseed. Travellers on the road to Puno and Bolivia stop to buy them by the bagful, and families bring them home for All Saints' Day and for sharing with hot coca tea or coffee, fresh cheese and butter. The bakeries traditionally use lard; this version uses vegetable shortening and butter, so it is vegetarian. The make-or-break moment is the proof: chuta is large and flat, and if it goes in under-risen it bakes dense and splits at the rim. Chef's tip: toast the aniseed for a minute in a dry pan and crush it lightly before adding, for a rounder, sweeter perfume.

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Jumeokbap (Korean vegetable rice balls)

Jumeokbap means 'fist rice', and Korean parents squeeze it together in minutes for picnics, school trips and busy mornings: warm rice tossed with sesame oil, crumbled seasoned laver and tiny pieces of vegetables, then pressed into balls a child can hold. It tastes nutty and gently salty. Tuna with mayonnaise or minced beef is a common addition, but this version is fully vegan. It contains sesame and, from the soy sauce in some seasoned laver, may contain soya and wheat. Chef's tip: mix the rice while it is warm; cold rice won't stick and the balls crumble in the lunchbox.

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Godeungeo guiGrilled mackerel

Andong, far inland, is oddly famous for its mackerel: the fish was salted on the coast and carried over the mountains, arriving perfectly seasoned, and Andong gangodeungeo is still sold that way. Across Korea, a salted mackerel fillet pan-grilled until the skin crackles is a staple of home dinners and set-meal restaurants, served with rice, doenjang soup and kimchi. Mackerel is an oily fish, so this is filling rather than low calorie: about 340 kcal a portion. The most common mistake is moving the fish too soon; leave it skin side down until the skin releases on its own, or it tears and sticks. Chef's tip: dust the skin very lightly with flour or starch before grilling, or simply pat it bone-dry; you'll get a crisp, glassy skin.

22 minKoreanFishGluten free
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Korean corn cheese

Corn cheese arrives sizzling on a small iron plate as a side at Korean barbecue restaurants, and at home it has become a five-minute after-school snack and a favourite for children's sleepovers in Seoul and beyond. Sweet, juicy corn is stirred with a little butter and mayonnaise, then covered in mozzarella and heated until it melts into long strings. Most versions add sugar; this one lets the corn's own sweetness carry it. It contains milk and egg (mayonnaise). Chef's tip: drain and dry the corn really well, or the dish turns watery under the cheese.

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Sogogi yachae-juk (beef and vegetable baby porridge)

In Korea, beef is added to a baby's rice porridge, or ijuksik, within the first weeks of weaning at about six months, because it is rich in iron. This sogogi yachae-juk blends soaked rice with lean beef, carrot and courgette into a smooth, savoury porridge that tastes gently meaty and sweet. It is made without salt, soy sauce or the sesame oil grown-ups would add. It contains none of the common allergens (milk, egg, gluten, peanut, tree nuts, soya, sesame, fish). Chef's tip: soak the beef in cold water for 15 minutes first to draw out the blood, which keeps the porridge clean-tasting and pale.

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ChaplasHollow puffed Andean bread

Walk through Ayacucho's central market at seven in the morning and you will see women selling stacks of chaplas from cloth-lined baskets, still warm from the wood-fired ovens of the Andes. These round wheat breads puff up like pita in the fierce heat, leaving a hollow pocket inside a thin, soft, lightly floury crust. In Ayacucho and Huancavelica they are eaten with sweet coffee or hot emoliente for breakfast, or split and filled with queso fresco, avocado or a spoonful of rocoto sauce. Highland bakers traditionally work in a little lard; vegetable shortening gives the same tenderness and keeps the bread vegan. A cool baking tray is the reason chaplas stay flat, so preheat it thoroughly. Chef's tip: let the rolled rounds rest before baking and flip them upside down onto the tray, so the smooth, dry side meets the heat first and the pocket opens evenly.

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Sotteok sotteok (sausage and rice cake skewers)

Sotteok sotteok, from sausage (so) and rice cake (tteok), is sold at Korean motorway service stations and school-gate snack stalls, and children make it at home with a parent after school: chewy rice cake sticks and sausage pieces threaded in turn, fried until the rice cakes blister, then brushed with a sweet ketchup glaze. Grown-ups like a little gochujang in the sauce. It contains soya and wheat (soy sauce); check your sausages for milk. Take everything off the skewers for younger children. Chef's tip: soak hard rice cakes in hot water first, or they crack when you skewer them.

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Soboro-ppangPeanut streusel buns

'Soboro' describes something crumbled, and that is exactly what covers these buns: a craggy, peanut-scented streusel that bakes into a sweet, sandy crust over soft milk bread. Soboro-ppang (소보로빵) has been a fixture of Korean neighbourhood bakeries since the 1960s and is still one of the cheapest, most loved buns on the shelf, bought by students after school and eaten with a carton of banana or plain milk. The contrast is the point, crunchy and buttery on top, fluffy and lightly sweet inside. Some bakeries fill them with red bean paste or custard; this is the plain classic. Beating the streusel into a smooth paste is a common mistake, as it melts into a flat lid in the oven, so rub it only into clumpy crumbs and keep it cold. Chef's tip: brush the tops of the dough balls with milk and press them firmly, top down, into a bowl of crumbs; a thick, even coat sticks better than crumbs scattered on afterwards. They contain peanuts.

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Kärntner ReindlingCinnamon raisin yeast cake

Carinthia's Easter loaf takes its name from the Reindl, the round, deep pan it is baked in, and in southern Austria no Easter basket goes to church without one. Inside the golden yeast crust is a spiral of butter, cinnamon sugar and plump raisins, so every slice shows a dark swirl. Locals eat it two ways: sweet with coffee on Easter morning, or alongside the savoury Easter platter with horseradish. Many bakers soak the raisins in rum overnight; warm water or tea works just as well and keeps it alcohol-free. A dry, crumbly Reindling usually means too much flour went in during kneading, so keep the dough soft and only lightly floured. Chef's tip: butter the pan well and dust it with sugar, which caramelises into a thin crunchy shell.

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BossamBoiled pork wraps

Bossam started as the dish Korean families made on kimjang day in November, when the whole street gathered to make the winter's kimchi: a slab of pork belly was boiled while everyone worked, sliced and wrapped in the salted cabbage leaves with the fresh, spicy radish filling. Today Seoul's bossam restaurants around Jangchung-dong serve it all year, and it is a favourite takeaway. This is a pork dish, and pork belly is rich, so it is not a low-calorie choice: about 450 kcal a portion. Boiling the pork in water with doenjang, onion, garlic and ginger renders out much of the fat and leaves it tender with no smell. The most common mistake is slicing it hot; rest it for 10 minutes or it falls apart. Chef's tip: let the pork cool in the broth for 10 minutes before lifting it out; it stays much juicier.

90 minKoreanMeat
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