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798 recipes

Strogonoff de frangoCreamy chicken stroganoff

Brazil adopted Russia's stroganoff and made it its own: strogonoff de frango is everyday family food in São Paulo, Rio and all over the country, cooked for weeknight dinners and Sunday lunch and served with fluffy white rice and a pile of crunchy potato sticks (batata palha) on top. Strips of chicken are seared, then simmered in a pink, gently tangy sauce of tomato, ketchup, mustard and mushrooms, finished with cream. It is mild, so children love it. The common mistake is boiling the sauce after adding the cream: it can split and turn grainy. Stir it in at the end over a low heat. The chicken is done when no pink remains and the thickest piece reaches 74 °C. Chef's tip: brown the chicken in two batches in a very hot pan; the golden bits on the bottom dissolve into the sauce and give it real depth.

30 min

Brazilian Chicken

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X-tudoBurger with everything

The x-tudo (say 'shee-TOO-doo'; 'x' sounds like 'cheese' in Portuguese) is the late-night king of Brazilian lanchonetes (snack bars) and street food trailers in São Paulo, Curitiba and Rio, eaten after football or a night out. A soft bun is stacked with a beef patty, melted cheese, ham, bacon, a fried egg, lettuce, tomato, sweetcorn and crunchy potato sticks, all held together with mayonnaise. It contains pork (ham and bacon) and egg. The common mistake is building it on a cold bun: toast the cut sides in the burger fat so they don't go soggy under all the fillings. The patty is done when there's no pink in the middle and it reaches 71 °C. Cook the egg until the white is fully set; for anyone pregnant, a young child or older or vulnerable people, cook the yolk firm too. Chef's tip: press the bun flat on the hot plate with a spatula for 20 seconds once built, the way lanchonetes do; it melts everything together.

35 min

Brazilian Fast Food

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BrigadeirãoBaked chocolate fudge pudding

Brigadeirão is the big, sliceable version of the brigadeiro, the chocolate fudge ball found at every Brazilian children's birthday party. Home cooks in São Paulo and Rio bake it in a ring tin in a water bath for Sunday lunch desserts and family parties: condensed milk, cocoa, eggs, cream and butter set into a dense, fudgy, truffle-like pudding, then it is turned out and showered with chocolate sprinkles. The common mistake is unmoulding it warm: it tears and slumps. It needs at least 4 hours in the fridge to firm up. It is done when the edges are set, the centre wobbles only slightly, and a skewer comes out with moist crumbs, not liquid. The eggs are fully baked. It contains milk and egg. Chef's tip: wrap the outside of the tin in foil and use hot, not boiling, water in the bath; it stops the pudding curdling into bubbles at the edges.

75 min

Brazilian Desserts

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Torta de limãoLime meringue pie

Torta de limão is one of Brazil's best-loved desserts, made in home kitchens from São Paulo to Belo Horizonte for birthdays and Sunday lunch, and sold by the slice in padarias (bakeries). A crumbly crust of butter biscuits holds a no-cook filling of condensed milk and plenty of lime juice that thickens like magic, topped with a cloud of glossy meringue that is browned in the oven. Brazilian limes (limão taiti) are juicy and very sharp, so use fresh limes, never bottled juice. The usual mistake is adding all the lime juice at once: pour it in gradually while whisking, or the filling can turn grainy. The meringue is done when the peaks are golden brown. For anyone pregnant, very young, older or with a weakened immune system, make sure the meringue is well browned and the egg whites cooked. Chef's tip: grate the zest over the filling just before the meringue goes on; the fragrant oils stay bright.

55 min

Brazilian Desserts

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Mandioca fritaFried cassava

Mandioca frita, called aipim in Rio and macaxeira in the Northeast, is a must at Brazilian botecos (neighbourhood bars), served in a basket with lime and a little hot sauce on Friday nights, or alongside picanha at a Sunday churrasco. Fat cassava batons are boiled until tender, then fried until the outside crackles and the inside is fluffy, like the best chips you have ever had. Cassava must never be eaten raw: peel off all the brown bark and pink layer and boil it until completely soft right through. The usual mistake is frying it before it is fully tender; it stays hard and woody in the middle. Boil until a knife meets no resistance and the batons start to split. Chef's tip: let the boiled cassava cool and dry completely on a rack, or even chill it overnight; dry cassava fries crisper and splatters less.

55 min

Brazilian Sides

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MexidãoRice and beans scrambled with egg

Mexidão, the 'big mix-up', is a late-night favourite in Belo Horizonte and the farm kitchens of Minas Gerais: yesterday's rice and beans fried in one pan with onion and garlic, scrambled with egg, tossed with finely shredded couve and finished with toasted cassava flour. Many versions add bacon or sausage; this one stays vegetarian and is just as satisfying. Leftover rice is only safe if it was cooled within an hour of cooking and kept in the fridge, and it must be reheated until piping hot. The common mistake is piling everything into a cold, crowded pan so it turns mushy instead of crisping at the edges. Chef's tip: toast the cassava flour in the pan until it smells a little like popcorn before adding it.

15 min

Brazilian Rice & Grains

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BeiruteRoast beef and egg pita sandwich

The beirute was born in São Paulo's Lebanese-run lanchonetes and is now a late-night dinner order all over the city: a whole pita split, filled with thin roast beef, melting cheese, tomato, lettuce and a fried egg, toasted on the griddle and cut into wedges with a sprinkle of za'atar or oregano. The common mistake is overloading it with wet lettuce and tomato before toasting, which steams the bread soft; add them after. Chef's tip: toast the pita cut-side down in the pan first so the inside is crisp and keeps the juices out.

15 min

Brazilian Fast Food

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GrießbreiSemolina porridge

Grießbrei is the soft, sweet semolina pudding that German and Austrian families from Bavaria to Vienna eat warm as a light supper on cold evenings, especially when children are tired or someone is under the weather. Semolina is rained into hot milk and stirred until thick and velvety, then topped with cinnamon sugar, a knob of butter or stewed fruit. The classic mistake is tipping the semolina in all at once, which makes lumps that never smooth out. Chef's tip: take it off the heat while it still looks a little runny, because it keeps thickening on the plate.

10 min

German Breakfast & Brunch

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PflaumenmusOven-baked plum butter

When the late damson plums (Zwetschgen) ripen in September, German kitchens fill trays with them for Pflaumenmus, and jars of it stand on the decorated altar at Erntedank, the harvest thanksgiving in early October. Unlike jam, it uses little sugar and no pectin: the halved plums are baked slowly, uncovered, until they collapse and darken into a thick, almost black spread that tastes of plums and spice rather than sugar. Spread it on rye bread with butter, fill Dampfnudeln with it or stir a spoonful into quark. Chef's tip: bake it in the widest roasting tin you have, because the more surface, the faster the water steams off.

330 min

German Chutneys & Dips

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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KhajlaFried pastry rounds in sweet milk

In the old lanes of Lahore and Karachi's Burns Road, sweet shops fry khajla through the night in Ramadan so families can buy it fresh for sehri, the meal eaten before dawn. Each round is a stack of paper-thin layers of ghee-rubbed dough that shatter when you press them, and it is crumbled into a bowl of hot sweetened milk, often with fine pheni, to give slow energy for the fasting day. Chef's tip: keep the oil only medium-hot; khajla must fry slowly so every inner layer turns crisp before the outside browns.

100 min

Pakistani Desserts

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Sabeel sharbatRose milk with basil seeds

In the first ten days of Muharram, and above all on Ashura, volunteers in Pakistani towns set up sabeel stalls at the roadside and pour free cups of cold sweet milk for anyone passing, in memory of the thirst of Imam Husain's family at Karbala. The drink is pale pink, lightly rose-scented and dotted with swollen basil seeds, and it is made in huge steel pots at the stalls; this is the home-sized jug. Chef's tip: soak the basil seeds in water first, never straight in the milk, or they stay hard and clump.

10 min

Pakistani Drinks

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TihaneStuffed lamb spleen

Tihane, or tehal, is an old Eid al-Adha speciality from Moroccan towns such as Fez and Marrakech, made on the days after the sacrifice when the offal is shared out. The lamb's spleen is cut open into a pocket and stuffed with chopped liver and heart, a little fat, green olives, preserved lemon, garlic and cumin, then sewn shut, poached and roasted until browned. It is sliced thin and eaten warm or cold with bread. Ask a halal butcher for the spleen and offal. Chef's tip: prick the spleen with a fine needle before poaching so it doesn't burst in the pot.

130 min

Moroccan Meat

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ApfelkrautApple syrup

In the Rhineland, apples from the autumn harvest are pressed and boiled for hours in copper cauldrons into Apfelkraut, a dark, glossy, sweet-sour syrup that is spread on Schwarzbrot with butter and quark, and that families bring to the Erntedank harvest thanksgiving in October. It needs no added sugar at all: the apples' own sugar and pectin concentrate until the juice is as thick as treacle and tastes like baked apple and caramel. Eat it on rye bread, with potato pancakes (Reibekuchen) or in a sauce for Sauerbraten. Chef's tip: use a mix of sweet and tart apples; the tart ones give the tang and the pectin that makes it set.

450 min

German Chutneys & Dips

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HeringssalatPickled herring and beetroot salad

When the carnival ends in the Rhineland and northern Germany, Ash Wednesday brings the Heringsessen, a herring meal shared in pubs and homes to mark the start of the Lenten fast. This rosy salad mixes diced pickled herring with beetroot, apple, gherkin and boiled potato in a creamy yogurt-mayonnaise dressing, and is served with rye bread. Use pickled herring bought ready-made in jars from the chiller, which has been commercially cured, and keep the salad in the fridge. Pickled and cured fish is not cooked, so it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system; for a safer version use hot-smoked mackerel or cooked fish. The common mistake is dressing the salad while the potatoes are hot, which turns it mushy. Chef's tip: make it the day before; the flavours deepen overnight.

55 min

German Salads

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OsterlammEaster lamb sponge cake

In Germany and Austria an Osterlamm, a light sponge baked in a two-piece lamb-shaped mould, stands on the Easter breakfast table, dusted with icing sugar with a ribbon and bell around its neck and sometimes a little flag. In Catholic regions it is taken to church on Holy Saturday to be blessed with the Easter basket. The cake is a buttery, lemony sponge, firm enough to keep its shape. You need a lamb cake mould, sold in kitchen shops before Easter. Chef's tip: grease the mould with soft butter and dust it with breadcrumbs or flour into every crevice, or the lamb's head stays in the tin.

65 min

German Baking

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Chana dal halwa

At Punjabi weddings in Lahore and Faisalabad in the cold months, the dessert table often carries a big tray of chana dal halwa beside the gajar halwa. Soaked split chickpeas are ground and fried slowly in ghee until they smell of roasted nuts and turn deep golden, then cooked with milk, sugar and cardamom into a rich, grainy halwa that keeps for days. It takes patience and a strong arm. Chef's tip: keep the heat low and scrape the bottom constantly; the dal catches fast once it starts to brown.

90 min

Pakistani Indian Sweets

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QuittengeleeQuince jelly

Quinces are too hard and sour to eat raw, so in Germany they are turned into Quittengelee, one of the jewel-coloured jars set out with the pumpkins and sheaves of wheat for Erntedank, the October harvest thanksgiving. The fruit is simmered whole in pieces, the juice drips through a cloth overnight, and then it is boiled with sugar until it sets into a clear jelly the colour of rosé, with a perfume like pear, honey and roses. Eat it on bread rolls, with cheese, or melted as a glaze for apple tart. Chef's tip: quince skin and cores are full of natural pectin, so cook them in with the flesh rather than peeling.

180 min

German Chutneys & Dips

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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Torta capixabaSeafood and palm heart pie

Torta capixaba is the Good Friday dish of Espírito Santo in south-east Brazil, cooked in the region's black clay pans (panelas de barro). Soaked salt cod, crab meat, prawns, palm hearts and olives are cooked with tomato, onion, coriander and annatto, then bound with beaten egg and baked until puffed and golden under a lid of egg and onion rings. It is served hot or warm with rice. Any ovenproof dish works. Chef's tip: fold in the egg whites last and gently, as they give the torta its light, set texture.

105 min

Brazilian Fish

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Afogado do DivinoBeef and potato stew

In São Luiz do Paraitinga in the hills of São Paulo state, the Festa do Divino Espírito Santo at Pentecost ends with a meal for everyone: huge pots of afogado, beef 'drowned' in a rich broth with potatoes, tomato, onion, garlic and herbs, served with pirão (a cassava-flour porridge made from the broth) and rice. Volunteers cook it in the town's kitchens through the night, and anyone who comes is fed. Chef's tip: brown the beef in small batches so it sears rather than stews, which gives the broth its deep colour.

175 min

Brazilian Meat

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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