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451 recipes

Sancocho de gallinaChicken soup with yuca and plantain

Sancocho de gallina is the soup Colombians cook in a huge pot for Sunday family gatherings, river outings in the Valle del Cauca and New Year's Day, often over a wood fire. A hen is simmered with corn on the cob, yuca, green plantain and potatoes until the starchy vegetables thicken the broth, then everything is served in deep bowls with rice, avocado and ají on the side. This version uses a whole chicken, which cooks faster than a laying hen. Yuca (cassava) must always be fully cooked until soft right through, never eaten raw or underdone. The common mistake is adding all the vegetables at once: the potato turns to mush before the yuca is tender. Add them in stages. Chef's tip: break the green plantain into chunks with your hands instead of cutting it; the rough edges release starch and give the broth its body.

115 min

Colombian Soups

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Huevos pericosScrambled eggs with tomato and onion

Huevos pericos are the everyday breakfast of Colombian homes from Medellín to Bogotá, made before school and work and eaten with a warm arepa and a cup of hot chocolate or tinto coffee. The name comes from the parakeet (perico), for the flecks of green spring onion and red tomato through the yellow egg. The secret is a quick hogao-style base: the onion and tomato are softened first, then the eggs are folded through over a low heat so they stay creamy. The common mistake is high heat, which turns the eggs dry and rubbery. Cook them slowly and take them off while still glossy. If you are cooking for anyone pregnant, a young child or an older person, cook until fully set. Chef's tip: use the long green tops of the spring onion as well as the white; Colombian cebolla larga is all about that mild green flavour.

15 min

Colombian Breakfast & Brunch

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SobrebarrigaBraised beef flank in tomato sauce

Sobrebarriga is a Bogotá Sunday lunch: beef flank (the thin covering of the belly, which is what the name means) braised for hours with beer, onion and herbs until it can be cut with a spoon, then finished in a rich hogao of tomato and onion. Families in the Andean highlands serve it with salt potatoes, rice and a slice of avocado. The common mistake is hurrying the braise: flank stays stringy until it has cooked for at least two and a half hours. Simmer it gently until a fork slides in easily. The beer cooks for a long time, so most of the alcohol is driven off but not all; for an alcohol-free version use beef stock with 1 tbsp of brown sugar. Chef's tip: after braising, brush the meat with mustard and give it 15 minutes in a hot oven for a browned, slightly crisp top.

200 min

Colombian Meat

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Cazuela de mariscosCoconut seafood stew

In Cartagena's old walled city and the beach kiosks of Bocagrande, cazuela de mariscos is the seafood dish to share on a hot afternoon: a rich stew of fish, prawns, squid and mussels in coconut milk and cream, coloured with a little tomato and served with coconut rice and fried green plantain (patacones). The common mistake is boiling the seafood in the sauce until it toughens. Build the sauce first, then add the seafood in order of cooking time for just a few minutes. Discard any mussels that are open and do not close when tapped, and any that stay shut after cooking. Chef's tip: a splash of the mussel cooking liquid stirred in at the end gives the cazuela its sea-salty depth without extra salt.

55 min

Colombian Fish

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Platte kaas met radijsjesQuark and radish on brown bread

In Flanders the evening meal is often a boterham, a plate of open bread slices, and one of the most loved toppings in Ghent and Antwerp is platte kaas: fresh, soft quark seasoned with chives, salt and pepper, spread thickly on brown bread and covered with crunchy radish slices. It is cool, light and ready in five minutes, a good supper after a big lunch. Some quark and fresh cheeses are set with a little animal rennet, so check the label for a vegetarian one. The common mistake is using thin, low-fat quark straight from the tub, which is watery and slides off the bread; stir it well and drain off any liquid first. Chef's tip: slice the radishes paper-thin and salt them only at the moment you serve, so they stay crisp.

5 min

Belgian Snacks & Starters

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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Schinkli im BrotteigHam baked in bread crust

Schinkli im Brotteig, a small smoked pork ham baked inside a bread crust, is a much-loved Christmas Eve dish in German-speaking Switzerland because it can be prepared ahead and goes into the oven while the family opens presents. The dough seals in the ham's juices and soaks them up as it bakes, and the ham is sliced with the crust and served with potato salad, mustard and pickles. Buy a ready-cooked smoked ham (Schüfeli or Schinkli) of about 1 kg. Chef's tip: dry the ham well before wrapping it, or the dough turns soggy inside.

120 min

Swiss Meat

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Viudo de pescadoFish steamed in banana leaves

Along the Magdalena River and in Huila and Tolima, Colombian families make viudo de pescado for Semana Santa: river fish (bocachico, capaz or nicuro, here any firm white fish) seasoned with hogao, then steamed in banana leaves on top of a pot of cassava, green plantain, potato and corn, so the vegetables cook in the broth and the fish in the steam. It is served together in big bowls with lime and ají. Chef's tip: cut the vegetables into similar-sized chunks so they all cook in the same time.

90 min

Colombian Fish

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Fasnachts-SchenkeliFried lemon dough fingers

Schenkeli ('little thighs') are fried for Fasnacht, the Carnival weeks that lead up to Lent in Switzerland, when bakeries in Basel, Lucerne and Zurich sell them by the bagful beside Fasnachtschüechli. The dough is rich with butter, eggs and lemon zest, rolled into finger-length logs and fried until they have a crisp, cracked golden shell and a soft, cakey middle. Some recipes add a splash of kirsch to the dough; this one doesn't. Chef's tip: fry them at a moderate temperature, as they need time to cook through and the signature cracks form only if they aren't browned too fast.

60 min

Swiss Baking

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MässmoggeHazelnut-filled striped sweets

Every autumn the Basler Herbstmesse, Switzerland's oldest fair, fills the old town with rides and stalls, and the smell of boiling sugar from the stands selling Mässmogge, glossy striped sweets in bright colours with a soft chocolate-hazelnut centre. They are made by pulling hot sugar until it turns satiny, wrapping it round a rope of filling and snipping it into little pillows. It takes practice and a sugar thermometer, and adults should do all the hot work; children can help once the sweets are cool. Chef's tip: work on an oiled silicone mat near a low oven, so the sugar stays pliable for longer.

75 min

Swiss Desserts

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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FastenwäheCaraway pretzel bread

Basel bakeries sell Fastenwähe only from the start of the new year until Easter, and through Fasnacht people buy them warm by the bagful. The flat, chewy yeast bread is shaped like a squashed pretzel with four slits, glazed with egg and scattered with caraway seeds, and is eaten plain or with cheese and Mehlsuppe. The common mistake is cutting the slits too short, so they close up as the dough rises. Chef's tip: a little lard or butter in the dough gives the soft bite of the bakery ones.

50 min

Swiss Breads & Parathas

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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Boudin blanc aux pommesWhite sausage with apple compote

In Liège and across Wallonia, Christmas Eve supper often begins with boudin blanc: pale, delicate sausages of finely minced pork and milk, sometimes with a little chicken, gently fried in butter until golden and served with warm, chunky apple compote and bread. Butchers make piles of them in December. Buy them fresh from a good butcher, or poached and ready to fry. Chef's tip: prick nothing and cook gently; boudin blanc is fragile, and a hot pan splits the skins.

30 min

Belgian Meat

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AllerheiligenstriezelBraided sweet loaf

In Bavaria and Austria, godparents give their godchildren an Allerheiligenstriezel on All Saints' Day, 1 November: a large braided loaf of sweet yeast dough, brushed with egg and scattered with almonds or pearl sugar. The braid is said to recall the old custom of cutting a plait of hair in mourning, and the size of the loaf once showed how generous the godparent was. It is lightly sweet, with lemon and vanilla, and is eaten sliced with butter or jam. Some recipes add rum-soaked raisins; these are soaked in warm water instead. Chef's tip: braid four strands for an impressive, high loaf.

85 min

Austrian Baking

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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KäsewäheCheese tart

At four in the morning on Basel's Morgestraich, when the lanterns go out and Fasnacht begins, the restaurants fill with drummers and pipers eating Mehlsuppe and slices of hot Käsewähe. The tart is a thin buttery pastry base filled with grated Gruyère or Emmentaler set in a nutmeg-scented custard of egg and milk, baked until puffed and golden. Traditional Swiss hard cheeses are made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian Alpine-style hard cheese if you need to. The common mistake is a soggy base, so bake the pastry blind first. Chef's tip: toss the grated cheese with a spoon of flour, which stops it sinking into a rubbery layer.

70 min

Swiss Baking

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ZigerkrapfenSweet cheese and nut pastries

In the Glarus valleys, Fasnacht means Zigerkrapfen: half-moon pastry pockets filled with sweetened Ziger, a soft fresh whey cheese, mixed with ground hazelnuts, raisins, cinnamon and pear, then fried or baked. Ziger itself is set with acid rather than rennet, but if you use ricotta check the label, and choose one marked vegetarian if needed. The common mistake is a wet filling, which bursts the seams; drain the cheese well. Chef's tip: brush the edges with egg white before folding and press with a fork, so they stay sealed in the hot oil.

65 min

Swiss Desserts

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Sopa de guandú con carne saladaPigeon pea soup with salted beef

On Colombia's Caribbean coast, and above all in Barranquilla around Carnival and Holy Week, families cook big pots of sopa de guandú, a hearty soup of pigeon peas and salted dried beef with yam, yuca and green plantain, flavoured with cumin, garlic and spring onion. It is eaten as a full meal with white rice, avocado and a little hot sauce, ideal to recover after the parades. The common mistake is not soaking the salted beef, which makes the whole pot far too salty. Chef's tip: grate a little of the green plantain into the broth; it thickens the soup naturally.

150 min

Colombian Soups

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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OsterfladenSemolina and almond Easter tart

Osterfladen is the Easter tart of Basel and northern Switzerland, baked on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter Sunday. A shortcrust case holds a creamy filling of semolina (or rice) cooked in milk, folded with ground almonds, raisins, lemon zest and whipped egg white, which bakes into a light, sliceable custard under a dusting of icing sugar. Some bakers soak the raisins in kirsch; here they are soaked in warm water, so it is alcohol-free. Chef's tip: fold the egg whites in gently and last, as they are what makes the filling light.

90 min

Swiss Baking

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Manjar blanco del ValleMilk and rice sweet

In the Valle del Cauca around Cali, Christmas means stirring manjar blanco: whole milk, sugar and a little ground rice cooked down for hours, traditionally in a big copper pan (paila) over a wood fire, until it turns into a thick, pale-caramel paste. It is served in totumo gourd bowls with buñuelos and natilla, or with a slice of fresh cheese. It is gluten free and keeps a week in the fridge. Chef's tip: soak and blend the rice to a fine paste first, which gives manjar blanco its smooth body without lumps.

225 min

Colombian Desserts

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SchlorzifladenDried pear tart

Schlorzifladen comes from the Toggenburg valley in the canton of St Gallen in eastern Switzerland, where dried pears (schlorzi) were a winter staple. The thin, crisp tart is filled with a thick, dark purée of cooked dried pears spiced with cinnamon, and baked for Christmas and village feast days. Some versions have a rice or cream layer on top; this is the simple pear one. Pear brandy is sometimes added, but this version uses lemon juice instead and is alcohol-free. Chef's tip: cook the pear purée until it is stiff enough to hold a spoon upright, or it soaks the pastry.

120 min

Swiss Baking

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